Classic Mustangs (Tech) Technical discussions about the Mustangs of yester-year.

Resto-mod project

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 09-05-2010, 09:19 AM
  #111  
jcoby
2nd Gear Member
 
jcoby's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: NC
Posts: 307
Default

Originally Posted by AGShelby
They are supposed to be there. Not sure of location for a 67/68 - but they are in the middle of the opening on a 65/66. Each time I have rebuilt suspension I have cleaned out a similar amount of junk from my cars. I have found that the original holes that are there to drain water were all either completely or almost completely closed up by body seam sealer from the factory. It wasn't a big issue as my cars have all been southern cars - but I would think it would be a disaster in a car that was driven on salt. It would create a perfect little pool to retain salt water in an area that would be slow to dry out.
they're in the corners for the 67-68 pretty much just like his pictures show. there is a smaller round one in the front and a much larger oval one in the rear. they're formed by the way the shock towers are cut and installed.

i know what you mean about the seam sealer. i don't think those guys really paid much attention to those holes at the factory.
jcoby is offline  
Old 09-06-2010, 04:33 PM
  #112  
hightower2011
4th Gear Member
Thread Starter
 
hightower2011's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Madison, Georgia
Posts: 1,643
Default

Update:
Engine on the stand, ready to be tinkered with! Haha


Got the rotisserie together!




And I finished the dis-assembly, so it's 100% ready to go on the rotisserie. BUT, I've decided to wait. I want to address a few things first.


This inner fender apron is rusted. I figured it might be a good idea to fix this before putting the car on the rotisserie. I know I can buy a whole replacement apron, but is that necessary? What you see is the only rust that exists on the fender apron. Anything else is just surface rust. So can I just patch it instead? My dad suggested I just cut out only the rust and weld in a patch.

Thoughts?
hightower2011 is offline  
Old 09-06-2010, 08:41 PM
  #113  
SLuckel
 
SLuckel's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: missouri
Posts: 7
Default

Just got done reading your entire thread. Looks like a very good start. I am restoring my '68 coupe. I have it completely disassembled right now also. Did all of the work myself which is a great teaching tool. I have to replace my full floorpan and one front frame rail before my car goes to be blasted. I have 4 kids so my budget and time frame are considerably more drawn out than yours. Keep posting your progress, it will help the people that follow you.
SLuckel is offline  
Old 09-12-2010, 09:53 PM
  #114  
hightower2011
4th Gear Member
Thread Starter
 
hightower2011's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Madison, Georgia
Posts: 1,643
Default

So I finally got started on removing some paint. I'm using an angle grinder with abrasive pads.




And I'm going back over it with black primer. I know it'd be better to do epoxy primer but I don't have time to do the car all at once and then prime it. I'm doing it in sections and have to keep it from rusting obviously.




I'm getting blue paint dust everywhere. When I stopped after 30 minutes or so of continuous grinding I looked like a smurf!
hightower2011 is offline  
Old 09-13-2010, 06:47 AM
  #115  
NoReins
3rd Gear Member
 
NoReins's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Ohio
Posts: 756
Default

Looking great. Just wait till you get it on the rotisserie, it's so exciting! It's a big pain in the butt getting that paint off, isn't it!?! Keep up the good work.
NoReins is offline  
Old 09-13-2010, 06:55 AM
  #116  
rmodel65
Yukon Cornelius
 
rmodel65's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: deep in the heart of dixie GEORGIA
Posts: 11,808
Default

aircraft paint stripper ftw
rmodel65 is offline  
Old 09-13-2010, 10:14 AM
  #117  
hightower2011
4th Gear Member
Thread Starter
 
hightower2011's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Madison, Georgia
Posts: 1,643
Default

Originally Posted by NoReins
Looking great. Just wait till you get it on the rotisserie, it's so exciting! It's a big pain in the butt getting that paint off, isn't it!?! Keep up the good work.
Yes it is a pain! Haha, but getting it down to bare metal is satisfying cause I know there's no bondo or crap hiding under there 5 years later.

Originally Posted by rmodel65
aircraft paint stripper ftw
Haha on the underside I'm sure I'll have to use something heavy duty. I've heard of people using mineral spirits and other chemicals to break down the underspray thats on there. Mine is nasty and greasy.
hightower2011 is offline  
Old 09-19-2010, 08:43 PM
  #118  
hightower2011
4th Gear Member
Thread Starter
 
hightower2011's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Madison, Georgia
Posts: 1,643
Default

Didn't get a lot done as I was touring colleges last week and weekend:




A drill attached wire wheels makes this job MUCH easier when the grinder can't reach or fit.



Also, I have a chance at a C6 transmission and I was wondering if $50-75 is a good price? I probably won't end up using it, just wondering if it's worth picking up? Maybe I'll use it for a future build or resell? I'm getting GT40p headers from the same guy so I figured I might as well offer on the trans if you guys think it's a good idea?
hightower2011 is offline  
Old 09-20-2010, 03:25 PM
  #119  
NoReins
3rd Gear Member
 
NoReins's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Ohio
Posts: 756
Default

Have you thought about taking the car to have blasted?
NoReins is offline  
Old 09-20-2010, 03:43 PM
  #120  
hightower2011
4th Gear Member
Thread Starter
 
hightower2011's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Madison, Georgia
Posts: 1,643
Default

Originally Posted by NoReins
Have you thought about taking the car to have blasted?
Yes, that was my original plan. But the $600+ quotes I got when calling and asking local places was way too high for me. It sucks kknowing its taking me months what it would take a professional two days, but I just gotta live with it.

I will be media blasting (I have a 120 gallon media blaster) the inside and outside of the engine bay, wheel wells, and the underside. Also probably the floor pans and trunk. But I decided to do the exterior with and angle grinder with abrasive pads attached.

Last edited by hightower2011; 09-20-2010 at 03:47 PM.
hightower2011 is offline  


Quick Reply: Resto-mod project



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:28 AM.