Resto-mod project
01-28-2011, 09:07 AM
#221
4th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Madison, Georgia
Posts: 1,643
It's funny but we installed all the 68 Shelby parts on our 67 except for the tail light panel. We both prefer the mustang tail lights over the 'Shebly' Cougar lights and most people have agreed.
Those small rust holes are fairly easy to fix with some light scraps of metal. Cut out the rust and make a replacement patch then weld on.. Tack a nail to the middle of the patch to hold it to get things started if needed.
Some people don't like the idea of blocking off the cowl vents due to the fresh air vent however we haven't had any issues. We removed the fresh air vent under the drivers side and have a full sized new fuse panel mounted there now from Ron Frances wiring. You do need to replace the factory heating with a vintage air system or other aftermarket setup that doesn't require the cowl vents. With the longer Shelby nose section on the front, the 68 Shelby hood and closed off cowl vents it makes the front of the car look very aggressive. We are glad we did this change and have a lot of positive comments about it.
No welding required for it either. Cut put the 2 panels from some sheetmetal, bend and shape them to lay down flat inside the vents, on the grats and use a good panel bonding glue. Once glued and place in the cowl areas put a couple gallon paint can on them for the night. Use a long strand filler to fill the small gap and then any good filler afterwards to smooth out with the cowl. If your going to do an aftermarket heater A/C system it's a great look and easy to do.
Btw.. Looks like your having a lot of fun and sticking with it! Congrats! I see way to many torn down and never finished.
Those small rust holes are fairly easy to fix with some light scraps of metal. Cut out the rust and make a replacement patch then weld on.. Tack a nail to the middle of the patch to hold it to get things started if needed.
Some people don't like the idea of blocking off the cowl vents due to the fresh air vent however we haven't had any issues. We removed the fresh air vent under the drivers side and have a full sized new fuse panel mounted there now from Ron Frances wiring. You do need to replace the factory heating with a vintage air system or other aftermarket setup that doesn't require the cowl vents. With the longer Shelby nose section on the front, the 68 Shelby hood and closed off cowl vents it makes the front of the car look very aggressive. We are glad we did this change and have a lot of positive comments about it.
No welding required for it either. Cut put the 2 panels from some sheetmetal, bend and shape them to lay down flat inside the vents, on the grats and use a good panel bonding glue. Once glued and place in the cowl areas put a couple gallon paint can on them for the night. Use a long strand filler to fill the small gap and then any good filler afterwards to smooth out with the cowl. If your going to do an aftermarket heater A/C system it's a great look and easy to do.
Btw.. Looks like your having a lot of fun and sticking with it! Congrats! I see way to many torn down and never finished.
Yes i have it on my coupe. Sorry dont have any pic of it, it has been in storage for 5 years and lost pictures but it looks like any other with Shelby tail lights. The panel is fiberglass just like the Shelby ones so you have to screw it on thats how Shelby did it anyways. The welding i was referring to was the 3 existing tail light holes some people weld them up for a more finished look inside the trunk. Its really easy to do nothing get cut or anything you just put this fiberglass panel over the existing metal one. If you dont do this for a while i should be getting my car back come spring. Also are you doing a Shelby deck lid thats what i have on mine so im unsure how they fit if you dont run one.
Thanks!
I think I'm gonna try to repair the part first and be thinking about the shelby lights while I do it.
01-28-2011, 10:14 AM
#222
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: CT
Posts: 940
03-01-2011, 12:16 PM
#223
4th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Madison, Georgia
Posts: 1,643
Update time!!!!
Parts I have acquired over the past few weeks:
First up, 351w 4V engine out of a '70s ford, '69 4V intake, Holley 600 carb
Progress disassembling the engine:
Here's a thread with my planning for the engine, I won't clutter this thread with discussion about the engine so if you want to add your input (please do!), post in this thread:
https://mustangforums.com/forum/clas...-thread-3.html
1999 Ford Explorer 8.8" rear end. 4wd 3.73 gears, will require modifying to fit:
2008 Mustang Rims, I like the look a lot and they fit my price range. I'm hoping I'll only need spacers up front cause I think they'll fit the '99 explorer rear end, please correct me if I'm wrong!
Got my under cowl area primed with rustoleum rust stopper. I'm considering throwing epoxy primer on here as well. I used rustoleum rust stopper that is sprayed on with a gun, not the rattle can stuff. I figured I would rather practice with this stuff than my SPI epoxy.
The brake pedal holder was taken out, here it was before I sprayed it as well. Unfortunately, the threads stripped on one of the holes. I had to order a tap and die kit and that fixed that problem. Now I'm prepared for more stripped threads in the future.
I also ordered an AMK Fasteners kit because SOOOO many of my bolts and nuts are rusted and stripped. I know it's hard to see in the pics, but the kit is INCREDIBLE! I'll take better pics soon but this kit is WELL worth the $175 I paid. All the bolts are brand new, labeled in individual bags with their placement on the car and number of bolts, nuts, etc. You can see the list included. $175 well spent I believe.
Don't have any pics but I've done a lot of rust repair on the rear window area.
More to come guys!
Parts I have acquired over the past few weeks:
First up, 351w 4V engine out of a '70s ford, '69 4V intake, Holley 600 carb
Progress disassembling the engine:
Here's a thread with my planning for the engine, I won't clutter this thread with discussion about the engine so if you want to add your input (please do!), post in this thread:
https://mustangforums.com/forum/clas...-thread-3.html
1999 Ford Explorer 8.8" rear end. 4wd 3.73 gears, will require modifying to fit:
2008 Mustang Rims, I like the look a lot and they fit my price range. I'm hoping I'll only need spacers up front cause I think they'll fit the '99 explorer rear end, please correct me if I'm wrong!
Got my under cowl area primed with rustoleum rust stopper. I'm considering throwing epoxy primer on here as well. I used rustoleum rust stopper that is sprayed on with a gun, not the rattle can stuff. I figured I would rather practice with this stuff than my SPI epoxy.
The brake pedal holder was taken out, here it was before I sprayed it as well. Unfortunately, the threads stripped on one of the holes. I had to order a tap and die kit and that fixed that problem. Now I'm prepared for more stripped threads in the future.
I also ordered an AMK Fasteners kit because SOOOO many of my bolts and nuts are rusted and stripped. I know it's hard to see in the pics, but the kit is INCREDIBLE! I'll take better pics soon but this kit is WELL worth the $175 I paid. All the bolts are brand new, labeled in individual bags with their placement on the car and number of bolts, nuts, etc. You can see the list included. $175 well spent I believe.
Don't have any pics but I've done a lot of rust repair on the rear window area.
More to come guys!
03-01-2011, 01:00 PM
#224
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: NJ
Posts: 1,110
Wow you have some new goodies. I wouldn't mind picking up a 351 for my 67.
Make sure you take plenty of pics of your explorer rear end install and modifications.
I bought the body kit bolt set too. Looking forward to being able to place the bolts in the right places.
Make sure you take plenty of pics of your explorer rear end install and modifications.
I bought the body kit bolt set too. Looking forward to being able to place the bolts in the right places.
Last edited by scootchu; 03-01-2011 at 01:02 PM.
03-01-2011, 01:42 PM
#226
4th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Madison, Georgia
Posts: 1,643
I know its great not to have to worry about these bolts anymore.
And I'll be sure to make a good guide. Of course I have to figure it out myself, but once I know what I need to do I'll make a guide.
I know!!! I've been getting behind BIG TIME, glad I'm finally getting back to it.
As stated, the cowl should be going on soon! Woohoo!
03-01-2011, 03:28 PM
#227
hey i remember you were looking for a shelby tail panel to weld in awile ago didnt know if you had seen these i saw them when i was ordering parts. http://www.cjponyparts.com/californi...-1968/p/TLP10/
03-01-2011, 04:08 PM
#228
4th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Madison, Georgia
Posts: 1,643
hey i remember you were looking for a shelby tail panel to weld in awile ago didnt know if you had seen these i saw them when i was ordering parts. http://www.cjponyparts.com/californi...-1968/p/TLP10/
03-01-2011, 06:37 PM
#229
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Albany, New York
Posts: 161
Alright I gotta say, nice work dude!!
OK, so how and why does the rear end need to modify the rear end? Is it too wide? Does it need to be modified because the 4X4 gears?
I would like to see some pictures of the rear window. You definitely have gotten back in gear Chip. Good work!!
OK, so how and why does the rear end need to modify the rear end? Is it too wide? Does it need to be modified because the 4X4 gears?
I would like to see some pictures of the rear window. You definitely have gotten back in gear Chip. Good work!!
