When I parked the car I had power steering, when I got back in I didn't. I didn't see any fluid on the ground and the belt wasn't slipping so I figured it must be the pump. When I got underneath to drain the old reservoir I found this.

I'm not sure where to start, it looks like I need to take the pitman off just to remove the broken bracket. Do you think the metal just got weak or did something else bind up to the point of breaking the metal? I drove it for a day without power steering and could steer ok.

 

They actually call it a power steering bracket. You can get it at Summit, Jegs, any where that sells headers. All header manufactures make one cuz with headers, they rub. The hole is about 1/2" lower for clearance which won't hurt anything. Cheaper than rewelding.

http://www.summitracing.com/search/?...0bracket&dds=1

 

Thanks for the reply. As I started looking for a new bracket I found just what you are talking about, special brackets for cars with headers. The car already had headers when I got it, unfortunately it looks like the slave cylinder bent on the end when the bracket failed (way more expensive than just a new bracket).

 

take the power stuff of and buy this http://www.mustangsplus.com/xcart/pr...at=2095&page=1

problem solved

 

How do you get the power cylinder stud out of the center link? I've tried to use a pitman arm puller and I've tried beating it with a hammer but it won't budge. I don't want to cut it out if I can avoid it because it's a $45 core.

 

Maybe use a pitman arm puller or something similar like a bearing puller...something that holds on to the centerlink but has a bolt in the center that as you screw it down pushed the bolt/stud of the power cylinder out of the centerlink.

 

OK, I give up. I've tried two different pitman pullers with an impact gun and it will not even move. Does anybody know if the center link on a 69 is different than a 70? Everywhere I've looked it shows 67-69 and then 71-73, no 70 with p/s.

 

What size hammer, i usually use a 4 pound short handled sledge.

 

I am using a 4lb 12" sledge. I got desparate and wedged a pickle fork between the old cylinder and the center link, then beat the F out of it. All I succeeded in doing was doing more damage to the cylinder (don't really care about my core at this point) the pin did not move at all. I'm tempted to cut it out but I'm afraid I won't be able to get the rest out of the hole and I can't find anybody who sells a p/s 70 center link.

 

If you can pull the rubber boot back and secure it, wrap a wet cloth around it and apply heat from a propane or Mapp gas torch to the bracket. Try to keep the heat on the bracket, not the threaded end. Heat expands metal and should make it easier to remove with a fork or Pitman arm puller. Heat works wonders on worn tie rods and ball joints that you don't mind damaging the boots on.