So, slapped the motor back together and all was well (should have known better). I have put 130 miles on it, probibly 20 - 25 short trip to a couple of shows, cruises ect. Allways ran 185 deg on the nose. Last couple of days it has been getting a little warmer. 190 - 200deg.

I know I had some air in the system because you could hear it burping every once in a while after shutdown.

Yesterday I adjusted the timing and went for a spin, about 4 miles down the road at a stop light the engine died. I started it back up and pulled into a parking lot where aout a gallon of coolent cam spilling out of the overflow. Temp gauge was readin 220 at this point. My electric fan was NOT kicking on (the probe is 1" from the top of the radiator and set to 190 deg)

I gave it 20 min and started to head home, got about a mile and the gauge shot up again. I pulled to a gas station, and released the rad cap (slowly), hot coolent came pouring out (.3 gal) and then the level dropped exposing about a 1 gallon void in the radiator. I filled it up and drove home pissing coolent the whole way.

Pulled into the garage and shut her down. It was steaming and chugging LOUD, you could hear it pounding the radiator for about 3 min after the engine was off.

My question is, Is it possible that for 100miles I drove with that big of an air pocket? The whole time, the cooling system was acting normally, engine running great. 185 fan kicking on and off as it should.

I feel like an idiot for having to ask this basic question. I didnt prop the car up that much when bleading and probib did a crappy job. But usually find these will bleed themselves pretty well.

 

the ford thermostat has a little bleed hole that helps a lot. but yes, once the engine is warm and the thermostat just opens I pout until full and usually i'm good then.

however the symtpoms you describe sound more like a blown headgasket than anything else ... I'd check on that first

 

Electric fan not kicking in sounds like either the problem is relay for fan (proble) malfunctioning or thermostat not opening and get return area hot enough for probe to pick up. Could you feel water circulating when hot. May wnat to pull probe out take a match to hit and see if it kicks on the fans.

 

Yeah, that's why I prefer a thermal clutch fan. Easy, simple.

You don't have trapped air in the system, the 'burping' and 'chugging' is the engine boiling. Ford considers 220° to be the 'overheat' threshold, which is where the Distributor Vacuum Control Valve (if equipped) opens to increase cooling.

 

Case in point for why I think electric fans are stupid. With a large flex fan or clutch fan for lower horsepower applications and a fan shroud, you will get great air flow that is not dependent on anything but the engine spinning.

I would troubleshoot why your fan is not working.

 

I have to add my vote for the elimination of the fan. I blew a fuse on mine and the gauge shot right up. I have a thermal clutch fan on it now and I can watch the thermostat open and close on the gauge meaning the thermostat is controlling the temp, not an electric fan kicking on and off.

If you keep the electric fan make the electrical connections bulletproof.

 

If your low on coolant, the fan won't work. There is no coolant passing through the radiator at the top, where you have your sensor. No coolant, that part of the radiator doesn't get hot, never trips the fan.

Lift the front of the car as high as you can get it and fill the radiator when it's running to get the air out.

Also if you are low on coolant, you can hear coolant boiling. Air compresses much easier than liquid, so it always boils easier than when it's filled completely up. Once it boils, doesn't do much for pulling heat out.

Lift it and let the thermostat cycle a few times. Don't top it off right away. If it burps, coolant will go every were. If the fan can, keep it on the whole time so the low coolant don't mess with it again. Keep the level down about 2 inches until it fully burped. Hope it helps

 

If you use a Ford thermostat with the air release valve, none of this is necessary.

 

You can also drill some 3/16" hole (3 works well) in a normal thermostat to help with burping.

 

THIS HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH THE ELECTRIC FAN!!!

I'm only talking about the E fan as it indicates the radiator is not getting warm enough to kick on while the coolent in the engine is boiling. Meaning its not getting enough hot coolent into the radiator. I think the only thing reaching the radiator is hot steam and that stays at the top.

The fan and temp sending unit has been tested, is brand new and it works great. In fact if I blurp the top hose for a while the fan kicks on. Not to mention the car overheats at 50mph...NOT a fan problem.

Not to start an electric fan/mechanical fan discussion, but this is one area where the probe actually helps determine the problem. Where as with a mechanical fan you would need to probe the rad to see core temps.

For the record I LOVE ELECTRIC FANS

As far as a head gasket goes , I just did them and I show no other signs. No smoke, coolent is clean. So I dont think (an hope ) thats not the problem.

So would you all agree its actually possible for a portion of trapped air to stay that way for 100miles and only now pop up and cause a problem?

I guess I will drain and re bleed the system and see what happens.
Thanks 2+2GT and CPRStreet for the helpfull posts you guys def read and understood what I was saying.