This is Exhausting
Is this the stuff?
Permatex, Anti-Seize Lubricant
Item # 81343 (133A)
Use in spark plug installation on aluminum cylinder head-equipped engines... [ahem] but if you read on it says and cast iron heads.
- Prevents corrosion
- Permits easy disassembly
- Will not wash away (no kidding don't get it on your hands)
- Eliminates galling, seizing
- Lubricates
- Withstands up to 1600 F
Use On:
- Manifold Studs
- Oxygen Sensors
- Hinges
- EGR Fittings
- Brake Anchor Pins
- Head Bolts
- Assemblies exposed to heat or corrosion
- Spark Plug Threads when installing in aluminum or cast iron heads.
Permatex, Anti-Seize Lubricant
Item # 81343 (133A)
Use in spark plug installation on aluminum cylinder head-equipped engines... [ahem] but if you read on it says and cast iron heads.
- Prevents corrosion
- Permits easy disassembly
- Will not wash away (no kidding don't get it on your hands)
- Eliminates galling, seizing
- Lubricates
- Withstands up to 1600 F
Use On:
- Manifold Studs
- Oxygen Sensors
- Hinges
- EGR Fittings
- Brake Anchor Pins
- Head Bolts
- Assemblies exposed to heat or corrosion
- Spark Plug Threads when installing in aluminum or cast iron heads.
Is this the stuff?
Permatex, Anti-Seize Lubricant
Item # 81343 (133A)
Use in spark plug installation on aluminum cylinder head-equipped engines... [ahem] but if you read on it says and cast iron heads.
- Prevents corrosion
- Permits easy disassembly
- Will not wash away (no kidding don't get it on your hands)
- Eliminates galling, seizing
- Lubricates
- Withstands up to 1600 F
Use On:
- Manifold Studs
- Oxygen Sensors
- Hinges
- EGR Fittings
- Brake Anchor Pins
- Head Bolts
- Assemblies exposed to heat or corrosion
- Spark Plug Threads when installing in aluminum or cast iron heads.

Permatex, Anti-Seize Lubricant
Item # 81343 (133A)
Use in spark plug installation on aluminum cylinder head-equipped engines... [ahem] but if you read on it says and cast iron heads.
- Prevents corrosion
- Permits easy disassembly
- Will not wash away (no kidding don't get it on your hands)
- Eliminates galling, seizing
- Lubricates
- Withstands up to 1600 F
Use On:
- Manifold Studs
- Oxygen Sensors
- Hinges
- EGR Fittings
- Brake Anchor Pins
- Head Bolts
- Assemblies exposed to heat or corrosion
- Spark Plug Threads when installing in aluminum or cast iron heads.

Yup.. if you can find the 4oz or 8oz bottles with the brush inside get that instead of the tube. Its great stuff and can be used quite a bit. You only need a light brushing though. If you use too much it'll just hold more dirt/dust. Also it does wipe off your hands with a rag easily enough but it can be messy! I hate grabbing the bottle as I know I'll get it on me somehow everytime without fail.. but its just damn nice down the road when those nuts/bolts/plugs have to be removed.
There is also a Copper version by Loctite for high heat applications. I use it for our spark plug treads. This stuff.
There is also a Copper version by Loctite for high heat applications. I use it for our spark plug treads. This stuff.
What do you make of this comment by someone on another forum?
"... wait we're talking about iron manifolds on an iron head right?
i never use gaskets between them if that was the case. less chance of warping when two exact same metals are right next to each other..."
"... wait we're talking about iron manifolds on an iron head right?
i never use gaskets between them if that was the case. less chance of warping when two exact same metals are right next to each other..."
As far as the "less chance of warping" goes I will have to call B.S. for the second time on this thread. IMO there is no downside of running a gasket.
I've gone both ways with gaskets. They are 2 machined surfaces and as long as both are perfectly clean, it's not a problem. On the other hand...I have had gaskets blow out in less than a week too. If I have a choice, I use a good quality gasket.
OK, thank you all for your advice, I got the drive side exhaust manifold mounted using the anti seize compound and torquing the bolts to 24 ft lbs as recommended by the Haynes manual, then I saw this post on another forum:
"... Also a big warning!!!!!!!! The use of any lube other than light oil will alter the torque needed to tighten the bolt/nut. The rule of thumb is to lower the torque setting by up to 30%. The anti seize reduces the friction between the threads so if you think you want 100# torque and go that tight you will be grossly over tightening the fastener and may even break it. "
"... Also a big warning!!!!!!!! The use of any lube other than light oil will alter the torque needed to tighten the bolt/nut. The rule of thumb is to lower the torque setting by up to 30%. The anti seize reduces the friction between the threads so if you think you want 100# torque and go that tight you will be grossly over tightening the fastener and may even break it. "
Well I got the second exhaust manifold back on today. I tapped the holes, scraped the old gasket off, applied some anti seize and torqued the bolts.
Thank you all for following this long post and providing me your feedback, others will benefit from it, I know I did.
As always here's some pictures of the progress, and you can see more on my web page here:
Small Block Ford 302 V8 Exhaust Manifolds


Thank you all for following this long post and providing me your feedback, others will benefit from it, I know I did.
As always here's some pictures of the progress, and you can see more on my web page here:
Small Block Ford 302 V8 Exhaust Manifolds




