Vacuum Advance Problem
3rd Gear Member
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 566
From: Sugar Land, Texas
Here is a link to the vacuum discussion about the 1100 carb....17 inches of HG at idle is the short answer...
http://tffn.net/phpBB3/viewtopic.php...4934&view=next
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 35
From: IN
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 35
From: IN
Here is a link to the vacuum discussion about the 1100 carb....17 inches of HG at idle is the short answer...
http://tffn.net/phpBB3/viewtopic.php...4934&view=next
http://tffn.net/phpBB3/viewtopic.php...4934&view=next
3rd Gear Member
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 566
From: Sugar Land, Texas
Is he testing the vacuum at the carb port? Picture
3rd Gear Member
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 886
From: North East Texas on the Red River
I really think that you're off on a tangent.
Connect a vacuum gauge to any vacuum port and see if you have 17 or 18 inHg. If everything is correct, you should have at least this much.
Whether you do or whether you don't, you need to do a thorough going over. In fact it wouldn't hurt to start with a compression check just to know that you're starting the process from a solid foundation.
Does it still have points? If so, make SURE that they are spotlessly clean with no pitting and adjusted correctly, then the timing set to factory setting with vac advance disconnected and plugged if that's what it calls for.
With points in good shape, adjusted properly and timing set, adjust the idle speed close to spec, and then turn the idle mixture screw in until it stumbles then back out maybe an 1/8 or 1/4 turn.
If you have trouble accomplishing any of these steps along the way, troubleshoot the reason why and correct it. Once you can go through all these steps to a smooth, hot idle, you'll have it.
When you get to one of these steps that you cannot get correct, post it here and we can go from there.
I really believe that you have focused on your vac advance issue and it is likely not your problem at all.
Connect a vacuum gauge to any vacuum port and see if you have 17 or 18 inHg. If everything is correct, you should have at least this much.
Whether you do or whether you don't, you need to do a thorough going over. In fact it wouldn't hurt to start with a compression check just to know that you're starting the process from a solid foundation.
Does it still have points? If so, make SURE that they are spotlessly clean with no pitting and adjusted correctly, then the timing set to factory setting with vac advance disconnected and plugged if that's what it calls for.
With points in good shape, adjusted properly and timing set, adjust the idle speed close to spec, and then turn the idle mixture screw in until it stumbles then back out maybe an 1/8 or 1/4 turn.
If you have trouble accomplishing any of these steps along the way, troubleshoot the reason why and correct it. Once you can go through all these steps to a smooth, hot idle, you'll have it.
When you get to one of these steps that you cannot get correct, post it here and we can go from there.
I really believe that you have focused on your vac advance issue and it is likely not your problem at all.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 35
From: IN
Tested vacuum. It had around 16 off the manifold. Probably ok there. Compression was pretty good: 135, 140, 150, 150, 155, 150. New points, condenser, rotor, coil. Gap good. Timing good. New plugs and wires.
Got the car to not die when putting in reverse and at operating temperature. Closed choke about 10°. Has anyone experienced this with a carb? I thought that it would run best when opened all the way at operating temp.
Got the car to not die when putting in reverse and at operating temperature. Closed choke about 10°. Has anyone experienced this with a carb? I thought that it would run best when opened all the way at operating temp.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 35
From: IN
Tested vacuum. It had around 16 off the manifold. Probably ok there. Compression was pretty good: 135, 140, 150, 150, 155, 150. New points, condenser, rotor, coil. Gap good. Timing good. New plugs and wires.
Got the car to not die when putting in reverse and at operating temperature. Closed choke about 10°. Has anyone experienced this with a carb? I thought that it would run best when opened all the way at operating temp.
Got the car to not die when putting in reverse and at operating temperature. Closed choke about 10°. Has anyone experienced this with a carb? I thought that it would run best when opened all the way at operating temp.