Feedback on rear discbrake conversion
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 459
From: az
Thanks for all the replies so far.
As i previous mentioned, i'll rebuilt the engine with more power. Ik was planning on keeping the stock engine and tune it to somewhere between 200-300 hp. That should be fun driving in busy europe. I'm in the Netherlands, and we don't have those long and wide roads like in the USA. Because of the increase of power and especially the crowded busy roads here, i need some good brakes. If i remember correctly at the last time my car was for inspection, i had an decelleration of 6-6.5 mtr/sec2. Sure, not bad for an 44 year old car, but i did have a few near misses because some ***** (you don't want to know) weren't paying attention. Long story short, i'd rather be in the 9 mtr/sec2 decelleration range and have a good feel on the pedal (dosage) I'm not sure how to say it in technical Englisch. I just don't to hit another car or cyclist or pedestrian, this little country has more than 16 million of them.
That's why i was thinking about an rear disc brake setup 10.5" or 11.25" and the 13" upgrade up front. I thought an setup like this would be a lot safer, better and reliable.
So,
@67mustang302:
why not crossed-drilled? I'm not planning on going to the tracks, just on the street. Also some highway driving.
You can't put an price on safety, for myself and especially others. If an good set like wilwood would set me back like a €1000,- so be it. (customs, shipmentcost and taxes will raise that $650,-)
When i'm done with the car, it'll be brand new. Sure, i could buy an brand new european car, but it won't be an classic mustang.
And for me that is not an option. At the bottum of the list, the costs of an restomod or an brandnew car will be the same. Sure it won't have any warrenty, but it will have a lot more fun.
As i previous mentioned, i'll rebuilt the engine with more power. Ik was planning on keeping the stock engine and tune it to somewhere between 200-300 hp. That should be fun driving in busy europe. I'm in the Netherlands, and we don't have those long and wide roads like in the USA. Because of the increase of power and especially the crowded busy roads here, i need some good brakes. If i remember correctly at the last time my car was for inspection, i had an decelleration of 6-6.5 mtr/sec2. Sure, not bad for an 44 year old car, but i did have a few near misses because some ***** (you don't want to know) weren't paying attention. Long story short, i'd rather be in the 9 mtr/sec2 decelleration range and have a good feel on the pedal (dosage) I'm not sure how to say it in technical Englisch. I just don't to hit another car or cyclist or pedestrian, this little country has more than 16 million of them.
That's why i was thinking about an rear disc brake setup 10.5" or 11.25" and the 13" upgrade up front. I thought an setup like this would be a lot safer, better and reliable.
So,
@67mustang302:
why not crossed-drilled? I'm not planning on going to the tracks, just on the street. Also some highway driving.
You can't put an price on safety, for myself and especially others. If an good set like wilwood would set me back like a €1000,- so be it. (customs, shipmentcost and taxes will raise that $650,-)
When i'm done with the car, it'll be brand new. Sure, i could buy an brand new european car, but it won't be an classic mustang.
And for me that is not an option. At the bottum of the list, the costs of an restomod or an brandnew car will be the same. Sure it won't have any warrenty, but it will have a lot more fun.I found used front PBR cobra mustang calipers, new rear Ford racing calipers and new rear discs for $280. I found new front discs for $80. I bought boss 338 wheels to make it work, new in the box $400. Next I bought Street or Track cobra brake kits for the front and rear, $400. The car isn't done yet. I still need hoses, master cylinder, proportioning valve and parking brake cables. I think I will be into cobra brakes and wheels for $1500.
picture of front mocked up, The only drawback in my setup is my wheels are 18".
6th Gear Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 10,468
From: California
Good drums would be fine for what you need. Discs aren't necessary in the rear unless you start getting into road racing...they'll even stop a car that's quite fast on a drag strip.
And cross drilled have issues with heat, if you don't road race it's not an issue...but then you're just paying extra for cross drilled rotors because they "look cool." Cross drilled are fine on the street, and paying more for the looks is personal preference.
And cross drilled have issues with heat, if you don't road race it's not an issue...but then you're just paying extra for cross drilled rotors because they "look cool." Cross drilled are fine on the street, and paying more for the looks is personal preference.
Thread Starter
1st Gear Member
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 127
From: loenen, netherlands
Thanks, good to know.
Maybe in the near future, i'll take the car for an trip through europe. This will include some high mountains and a lot of corners. Offcourse the suspention will be upgraded too.
The main reason that i want to get rid of the drums is that when they are wet, it takes too long for them to warm up and do their work. In comparison to discs, they react faster when wet. Living in an country where it rains quite a lot, let's just saw, been there, done that on the highwayexit.
All this will take place in the near future, but first, i'll have to finish my other project car. Little things like safety upgrades for my DD will come in between projects. Luckely, it's summer now, so i can ride my (motor) bike once in an while.
@OCHOHILL:
I know that going big on discs will require bigger wheels. Here's an spoiler on how i wan't my '66 to look like when i'm finished. Not with the blower on top.
Maybe in the near future, i'll take the car for an trip through europe. This will include some high mountains and a lot of corners. Offcourse the suspention will be upgraded too.
The main reason that i want to get rid of the drums is that when they are wet, it takes too long for them to warm up and do their work. In comparison to discs, they react faster when wet. Living in an country where it rains quite a lot, let's just saw, been there, done that on the highwayexit.
All this will take place in the near future, but first, i'll have to finish my other project car. Little things like safety upgrades for my DD will come in between projects. Luckely, it's summer now, so i can ride my (motor) bike once in an while.
@OCHOHILL:
I know that going big on discs will require bigger wheels. Here's an spoiler on how i wan't my '66 to look like when i'm finished. Not with the blower on top.
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