Timing Recommendation
Hi:
I am thinking of tinkering with the timing on my '65 289 (just converted from a six---MUCH better now). Before I start, though, I am wondering where people are generally running theirs. Currently, I am at 10 degrees. Also, to advance timing on these engines, do you turn the distributor clockwise or counterclockwise?
Thanks,
/s/ Chris Kennedy
I am thinking of tinkering with the timing on my '65 289 (just converted from a six---MUCH better now). Before I start, though, I am wondering where people are generally running theirs. Currently, I am at 10 degrees. Also, to advance timing on these engines, do you turn the distributor clockwise or counterclockwise?
Thanks,
/s/ Chris Kennedy
hiya, is it auto or manual, is it stock engine?
the biggest thing overlooked with timing as that people only set the initial timing, not the curve and not the total timing
as for your question, Ford distributors turn anticlockwise (means that the rotor in distributor turns anticlockwise). So if you want to advance the igntion, you will need to turn the distributor clockwise (the whole housing will turn but not affect the rotor, so whatever triggers the spark will trigger earlier when you turn against rotor)
if you still have points in the distributor adjust them first, then do the timing. For the timing you will need a good timing gun. best one of the ones where you can set the advance with a dial
the biggest thing overlooked with timing as that people only set the initial timing, not the curve and not the total timing
as for your question, Ford distributors turn anticlockwise (means that the rotor in distributor turns anticlockwise). So if you want to advance the igntion, you will need to turn the distributor clockwise (the whole housing will turn but not affect the rotor, so whatever triggers the spark will trigger earlier when you turn against rotor)
if you still have points in the distributor adjust them first, then do the timing. For the timing you will need a good timing gun. best one of the ones where you can set the advance with a dial
You basically want to tune the timing based on total timing. You want the most advanced timing you can at WOT without pinging. At idle, you want as much timing as you can without having starting issues. Too much initial timing will create a load on your starter which will make the engine slow and hard to start. Too much total timing will cause detonation or pinging under load or WOT. This occurs when the fuel auto ignites before the engine is ready and before the spark plug fires.
With a performance distributor, you can set both of these things and then adjust the advance curve based on your engines performance. With a simple dizzy you will have to shoot for total timing and then live with the initial where ever it is. To give you an idea, I am running 15* initial timing with 36* of total timing. My total timing is in by 3000 rpm. I have an aluminum headed 10.5:1 compression motor with a roller cam, so that is all the timing I can run and not detonate badly. This is just the mechanical...I also have vacuum advance, but we will save that discussion for later on.
With a performance distributor, you can set both of these things and then adjust the advance curve based on your engines performance. With a simple dizzy you will have to shoot for total timing and then live with the initial where ever it is. To give you an idea, I am running 15* initial timing with 36* of total timing. My total timing is in by 3000 rpm. I have an aluminum headed 10.5:1 compression motor with a roller cam, so that is all the timing I can run and not detonate badly. This is just the mechanical...I also have vacuum advance, but we will save that discussion for later on.
Last edited by urban_cowboy; Jul 13, 2010 at 12:01 PM.
hiya, is it auto or manual, is it stock engine?
the biggest thing overlooked with timing as that people only set the initial timing, not the curve and not the total timing
as for your question, Ford distributors turn anticlockwise (means that the rotor in distributor turns anticlockwise). So if you want to advance the igntion, you will need to turn the distributor clockwise (the whole housing will turn but not affect the rotor, so whatever triggers the spark will trigger earlier when you turn against rotor)
if you still have points in the distributor adjust them first, then do the timing. For the timing you will need a good timing gun. best one of the ones where you can set the advance with a dial
the biggest thing overlooked with timing as that people only set the initial timing, not the curve and not the total timing
as for your question, Ford distributors turn anticlockwise (means that the rotor in distributor turns anticlockwise). So if you want to advance the igntion, you will need to turn the distributor clockwise (the whole housing will turn but not affect the rotor, so whatever triggers the spark will trigger earlier when you turn against rotor)
if you still have points in the distributor adjust them first, then do the timing. For the timing you will need a good timing gun. best one of the ones where you can set the advance with a dial
/s/ Chris Kennedy
You basically want to tune the timing based on total timing. You want the most advanced timing you can at WOT without pinging. At idle, you want as much timing as you can without having starting issues. Too much initial timing will create a load on your starter which will make the engine slow and hard to start. Too much total timing will cause detonation or pinging under load or WOT. This occurs when the fuel auto ignites before the engine is ready and before the spark plug fires.
With a performance distributor, you can set both of these things and then adjust the advance curve based on your engines performance. With a simple dizzy you will have to shoot for total timing and then live with the initial where ever it is. To give you an idea, I am running 15* initial timing with 36* of total timing. My total timing is in by 3000 rpm. I have an aluminum headed 10.5:1 compression motor with a roller cam, so that is all the timing I can run and not detonate badly. This is just the mechanical...I also have vacuum advance, but we will save that discussion for later on.
With a performance distributor, you can set both of these things and then adjust the advance curve based on your engines performance. With a simple dizzy you will have to shoot for total timing and then live with the initial where ever it is. To give you an idea, I am running 15* initial timing with 36* of total timing. My total timing is in by 3000 rpm. I have an aluminum headed 10.5:1 compression motor with a roller cam, so that is all the timing I can run and not detonate badly. This is just the mechanical...I also have vacuum advance, but we will save that discussion for later on.
Regards,
/s/ Chris
If you have a good timing gun, disconnect the vacuum advance hose at distributor and plug the hose. Then slowly accellerate your engine and watch the timing advance. make a note of when it stops advancing and at what rpm. and what was that total advance you read.
As said, for this you'll need a good timing gun where you have a dial. or timing marks on balancer that go up to 40 degrees advance at least
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M3hunter
S197 Handling Section
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Sep 5, 2015 03:42 PM



. I think stock initial was 6*.

