Dealing with rust
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 6
From: Texas
Dealing with rust
New to the forum and auto work in general. Please excuse ignorance or incorrect word usage.
Starting a very long project on a 1969 Mustang. Obviously various amounts of rust on the underside, but some surface rusting on the body i a few places. I took a wire brush wheel and gently grinded it down to metal which didn't take too much. Most of it came off without any distortion to the sheet metal but I can still see small speck. Should I continue to grind it out until I see nothing but shiny metal, or would a primer prevent further rusting.
Also, do I need to worry about rust in the lines, be it fuel or power assisted steering etc in for the purposes of getting the car running? I Plan to replace most if it later.
And why does it look like the transmission fluid pan and differential housing look damp?
Starting a very long project on a 1969 Mustang. Obviously various amounts of rust on the underside, but some surface rusting on the body i a few places. I took a wire brush wheel and gently grinded it down to metal which didn't take too much. Most of it came off without any distortion to the sheet metal but I can still see small speck. Should I continue to grind it out until I see nothing but shiny metal, or would a primer prevent further rusting.
Also, do I need to worry about rust in the lines, be it fuel or power assisted steering etc in for the purposes of getting the car running? I Plan to replace most if it later.
And why does it look like the transmission fluid pan and differential housing look damp?
2nd Gear Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 404
From: SFV, Calif.
New to the forum and auto work in general. Please excuse ignorance or incorrect word usage.
Starting a very long project on a 1969 Mustang. Obviously various amounts of rust on the underside, but some surface rusting on the body i a few places. I took a wire brush wheel and gently grinded it down to metal which didn't take too much. Most of it came off without any distortion to the sheet metal but I can still see small speck. Should I continue to grind it out until I see nothing but shiny metal, or would a primer prevent further rusting.
Also, do I need to worry about rust in the lines, be it fuel or power assisted steering etc in for the purposes of getting the car running? I Plan to replace most if it later.
And why does it look like the transmission fluid pan and differential housing look damp?
Starting a very long project on a 1969 Mustang. Obviously various amounts of rust on the underside, but some surface rusting on the body i a few places. I took a wire brush wheel and gently grinded it down to metal which didn't take too much. Most of it came off without any distortion to the sheet metal but I can still see small speck. Should I continue to grind it out until I see nothing but shiny metal, or would a primer prevent further rusting.
Also, do I need to worry about rust in the lines, be it fuel or power assisted steering etc in for the purposes of getting the car running? I Plan to replace most if it later.
And why does it look like the transmission fluid pan and differential housing look damp?
As for the transmission and differential. Is it actually wet? Run your hand across it, is there fluid? Then you may have a leak at one or both areas. If it is not leaving puddles and you don't have to add fluids often, then it is a very small leak. Both my transmission and differential had leaks when I first got my car.
As for rust in the fuel lines? Are they original? Then you may need to take a look at you fuel tank for rust. Start by draining the gas and pull the fuel sending unit. Use a flashlight to check the tank itself. That will give you an idea of what is going on in your fuel system. When I pulled mine, the filter on the fuel sending unit was corroded and crumbling with rust over just about every other art.. I tried flushing lines and replacing filters, but in the long run it would have been cheaper to start by replacing EVERYTHING at once (I ended up doing that) instead of going through half a dozen filters and having carburator problems from the partial cleanings.
Advice from a First Time Mustang owner and First Time Mechanic? Get a copy of "The Mustang Restoration Handbook" as well as the shop manual (and others). They will be invaluable and will help with most of your questions and some you never thought of yet!
Welcome aboard!
Last edited by MetalEd; Jul 27, 2010 at 11:00 AM.
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 262
From: British Columbia
Rustmort will convert the rust to a primerable surface. You never want to seal over untreated rust as it will continue to spread under the primer and cause problems later. Por15 makes a good conversion product as well and many others do too good luck man
4th Gear Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 1,027
From: NJ
I used (using) POR15 on my 66 and think it was a mistake. What really POd me big time, I used their semi-gloss to do the engine compartment. Naturally I want the sg so it has the original appearance. After completely painting 2 coats it looks glossy after a day. So I give it a second day, still glossy. There are a couple of small spots the flattened out and look nice but for the most part it's a glossy finish. I call POR and they tell me they have problems with semi-gloss turning out glossy and I should put a coat of chassis black over the top. Since its been a couple of days I need to scuff everything again. Would have been much easier to just spray the chassis coat over the POR15 when it was tacky. I HATE companies that know there is a potential issue but don't warn you until its too late. For this reason alone I'll never use their products again, don't care how good they may be.
3rd Gear Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 882
From:
I used (using) POR15 on my 66 and think it was a mistake. What really POd me big time, I used their semi-gloss to do the engine compartment. Naturally I want the sg so it has the original appearance. After completely painting 2 coats it looks glossy after a day. So I give it a second day, still glossy. There are a couple of small spots the flattened out and look nice but for the most part it's a glossy finish. I call POR and they tell me they have problems with semi-gloss turning out glossy and I should put a coat of chassis black over the top. Since its been a couple of days I need to scuff everything again. Would have been much easier to just spray the chassis coat over the POR15 when it was tacky. I HATE companies that know there is a potential issue but don't warn you until its too late. For this reason alone I'll never use their products again, don't care how good they may be.
I had the exact same issue with POR15 5 years ago in my engine bay......I ended up doing what you need to do, scuff everything up again and spray down a flat, mate black.
I cant believe they have not fixed this issue yet. (They told me it was my fault since I applied it wrong when I called them since I painted when it was below 72 and did not use heat lamps)
4th Gear Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 1,027
From: NJ
I had the exact same issue with POR15 5 years ago in my engine bay......I ended up doing what you need to do, scuff everything up again and spray down a flat, mate black.
I cant believe they have not fixed this issue yet. (They told me it was my fault since I applied it wrong when I called them since I painted when it was below 72 and did not use heat lamps)
I cant believe they have not fixed this issue yet. (They told me it was my fault since I applied it wrong when I called them since I painted when it was below 72 and did not use heat lamps)
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