Classic Mustangs (Tech) Technical discussions about the Mustangs of yester-year.

removing the rear window

Old 07-28-2010, 04:12 AM
  #1  
kalli
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Default removing the rear window

Hi all,

in heavy rain i have water in the trunk. Originally I thought it was the trunk seal since that was very bad. but once I dried everything up and checked where it's coming from.
water drips, lands on the middle of the rear wheel wells and flows from there into the trunk.
I'm quite sure it's the rear window (or whatever holds it in place) is leaking.
I bought a rubber years ago, so I wanted to tackle this at some stage before the car starts rotting back there.

Any hints on:
- how to remove the chrome around the windows?
- remove the window in the rear (just push it out starting at a corner)?
- how to get it back in (the old rope trick?)
- and how to get the chrome back on

don't need a full manual, just if there's something everyone runs into problems with, please let me know

Kalli
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Old 07-28-2010, 09:14 AM
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tx65coupe
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That sounds like the window is leaking to me as well. I had the same problem. Actually I still occasionally do on the driver side. Its not very often though. I have never seen it leak after a rain. Only a couple times when washing.

Here are some tips I have. Use the right tool to remove the chrome trim. Also use painters tape or something soft to avoid scratching the paint. It can be helpful when reinstalling the chrome trim to use peices of tape to mark where the clips are so you know where to push it on. I believe we used rope or electrical wire to remove the window seal as well as put it back in.

Just curious does your Stang park outside and is it a daily driver? If you don't have a garage for it, I would get a good car cover and the cowl cover.

Last edited by tx65coupe; 07-28-2010 at 09:16 AM.
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Old 07-28-2010, 09:48 AM
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kalli
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tape is a good idea before I let myself loose on it :-)
not daily driver, but as close to one as you would get it. more than half the days ... no garage, always outside. I have a great cover (wolf breathable) but I hardly ever use it. Only if I know it's parked for a week or longer.

as what you mention you don't have it after rain, but you have it after carwash. I was tracking that same problem down 10 years ago as a mechanic at Opel. had someone lie in the trunk and tried all sorts of things. customer was adement when he washes the car it leaks. i tried hosing and powerhosing, but never leaked. guess what it was in the end ... the washup liquid. as soon as i mixed soap with the water it leaked. probably doe to the change in surface tension of the water
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Old 07-28-2010, 12:54 PM
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tx65coupe
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Thats interesting. I never thought of that. Maybe it is related to the soap. I use Meguiars Gold Class soap, it does a great job.

I got the idea for the painters tape to mark the clips from HoneyGoldCoupe HGC. He put small pieces on the paint next to the clips.

I bet 2+2 will chime in soon. He recommends using 3M glass bedding compound. I can not remember if we used that or not. I'm pretty sure we did. He would know how much is needed?

Last edited by tx65coupe; 07-28-2010 at 12:59 PM.
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Old 07-29-2010, 06:34 PM
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Tomahawk715
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I second using the tool to get the trim off--otherwise you will tweak it for sure and then it will never lay right.

I would not just push on it---I've never seen that work. The best way I've found (provided you have a new seal--I dont know why you wouldnt use one) Is to get a razor blade knife/utilitly knife or whatever name you want to use for it and cut the seal--tape off the painted body so the handle doesnt hit it. You should have the blade at a slight angle off 90 degrees with the blade pointing in toward the glass (does that make sense??) You want to be cutting just outside the glass no against it. Anyway cut all the way around the seal so the glass is is no longer captured by the seal. Then carefully push it out leaving the backside of the seal in. Be VERY careful--even doing this I've had glass crack. These things usually have been in there for eternity and the glass can still be "bonded" to the seal. Or it may want to just fall out--neither is good.

Yes use the old rope trick to get it back in--use lots of lube--I use windex. Have one or more helpers. Get the window centered with a helper on either end on the outside lining it up. I start in the middle of the lower part--if you start on the end it seems it always "pushes" the glass over and you have to apply way too much pressure on the far end.

Last edited by Tomahawk715; 07-29-2010 at 06:36 PM.
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Old 07-30-2010, 02:37 AM
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thanks for that, i guess it will make more sense when I'm aty it. I'll be reaing again looking at it, but i think you want me to cut of the seal. with the rope i usually start in the bottom middle (when putting in), when I move to edges outside the window usually slips nicely into place then (gravity is great)
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Old 07-30-2010, 03:00 AM
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nba1341
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I have the rear seal and have been meaning to try this since my trunk also fills with water and I thought it was the trunk seal for the longest time until I saw the water stream coming from the passenger side of the window.

I put a vinyl trunk mat back in my trunk so the water builds up on top of that and does not soak through to the trunk itself that way I can soak it right up after washing my car.
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Old 07-30-2010, 05:50 PM
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Sorry hard to describe but yes cut the seal before trying to push window out. But again be careful as some will then want to fall out. But as I said some will still cling.
Done this many times with VWs and Jeeps. They use the captured glass system as well.

And yes bottom middle. Lot of people make the mistake of starting on one end or the other--the first end goes in easy but by the time you get to the far end the glass has pushed over to that side and you have to put tons of pressure on it to get it in--bad. Of course then its very hard to get the thing back out.

Another tip--leave the new seal out in the bright sun so its good and warm--makes it more plyable--If you have the time put it on the window and leave it out for a day or two to take a set.
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