Thanks for the info Scootchu.

Do you happen to remember what issue of the MM had the information on the drive line and angles? This could also be the case since I was originally thinking that the engine was not resting properly in the engine mounts. When I dropped the engine in the car, the trans was not attached. So I was definitely thinking along those lines too.

Soo before I got tearing the car back apart, I think I am going to go through the process of elimination.

This is what I plan to do:

1. Loosen the engine and trans mounts, then start the engine. Rev it up a few times and tighten the mounts back up. If the engine is not sitting properly in the engine mounts this should solve that issue, correct?

2. Check the clearance around where the shifter comes through the trans tunnel. I do know that clearance was tight, but maybe it's too tight.

3. Check the angles using suggested MM article.

4. Buy a new flywheel and install it.



Any other suggestions?

 

Actually Groho had that info, but I will take credit. LOL

I suppose the engine could be sitting funny, but I just changed out my motor mounts and the vibration remains. I have eliminated a bit of it each time I do something to the engine or tranny, like the addition of a Ron Morris trans mount instead of my modified Toploader mount.

I suspect the flywheel and/or the pressure plate in my case, but the vibration has been reduced enough as to not want to pull the tranny for like the umteeenth time.

What I did notice when I replaced my motor mounts was that one bolt on each side of the block was way too easy to break free when loosening.

I have just decided to live with it for now until I build a 347 for the car. I mean I will still try different things, but have resigned myself to the fact that I cannot eliminate the vibration, as slight as it may be, completely.

 

im with Scootchu
I have got mine to the point that i can live with it. i switched out my trans mount. installed a new rear end (and reset the pinion angle) swapped to a different T5, double checked the flywheeel and even replaced my yolk and drive shaft with one that was balanced to 10k rpm's. i am at a loss now so i gave up.

 

What trans mount did you use? I have a stock c4 mount, i believe.

 

Try not to lose sight of the facts.

Pinion angle deals with the operating angles of the trans output relative to the slope of the pinion...the key word is operating...If it vibrates in a dead stop just like it does when its rolling then dont bother with it. You could bend the dive line into half a double helix and weld it to the rear wheel and you are not going to notice a difference in you vibration levels in neutral.

Its got to spin to make a vibration....(although a static piece can transfer a vibration like the trans case touching the tunnel)

The deal on pinion angle is the trans should hang down at - 3 deg and the rearend should point up at 3 deg. This is called parallel where the line at which the trans hangs down is opposite and equal to the rear end and the two line will not intersect. Thats the ideal situation...IF you trans hangs at -5 deg then the pinion, you might figure should point up at 5 deg...well now are total operating angles are getting too large and you might have better luck if you leave the pinion at 2 or 3 deg and dont bother with the trans... I think the deal was when you add the absolute value 3+3=6 or 5+5=10 the product should not exceed 8.....But whatever my trans hangs down about 4 deg and the pinion either sits up at 1 or 2 deg or hangs down at 1 or 2 deg (Cant remember) I know its not anywhere near ideal and that thing runs slick at snot even at 90 mph...My vibration issues were due to a worn slipyoke....that took months to track down as I chased pinion angle around (But my issue only occurred when the car was moving and speed got past 75)

So again think about cause and effect before you go off on some wild tangent.

I think your best best is to follow the steps you showed above and there certainly is no harm in checking pinion angles but I wouldn't bother changing them.

I also use the c4 trans mount that is the way to go.

-Gun

 

Thanks for the Details Gun Jam.

I am going to stick with my plan of action that I outlined 2 post ago. I will have the car in the air tonight and will let everyone how things go.

I ended up talking to Bruce at Modern Drive line and he said that he had a 65 that had the same issue..... It turned out to be that the crank was 2oz out of balance to begin with... That that might interest those who have done everything to try to solve the vibration problems. (I seriously doubt this would be my problem)

 

Could be an internal balance issue in my case. You never know, hopefully not yours.

Now I wonder, and humor me on this, if you could methodically move 2 ounces of weight around the damper would it eventually lessen or eliminate the vibration if it was in the crank???? I know it's not the way to do it, but would it work provided you knew the imbalance weight?

 

I believe I figured out the issue. The trans mount (Ron Morris) is holding the T5 too high in the tunnel and causing the part where the shifter comes through the floor to rest on the trans tunnel. Any clue how to solve this issue? I will post some pictures this evening.

Anyone know if there are adjustable trans mounts out there for a t5 conversion?

 

Yes that would indeed be at least one probable cause.

The solution is to cut the tunnel where the shifter comes through the floor just large enough so the shifter housing can fit into the cutout unobstructed.

This isnt necessarily the fault of the RMP mount the stock c4 mount will also cause the t5 shift housing to hit the floor. I found I had to cut about 3/4th of an inch off the front of the opening so that the t5 could fit without interference.

After this run a sheet of paper or something along the entire length of the trans and make sure its not touching anywhere.

Should solve the problem!

-Gun

 

Yea, I thought I hacked my tunnel enough.... But I guess not. It would be nice if they made cross member that allowed you to drop the trans a 1/4 of an inch because that's all i need!

I will be cutting away this evening! I hope I never want to switch back to an automatic!