If they lowered the trans another 1/4" then we start to run into that pesky pinion angle bull crap.

You should only be cutting around the location where the large rectangle shift housing trys to fit through..Right?

And no you wont switch back to auto..once I got all the bugs worked out its been all sunshine and bunnies.

-Gun

 

I figured that pinion angle would be an issue if the trans was dropped a tad. I was only cutting enough for the top of the PRO 5.0 shifter to come through. However, the base of the shifter (the top of the actual trans) is what is hitting (where it bolts to the trans). The amount that I cut off still allowed me to put back all the C4 stuff if need be. So I guess I have to cut the hole big enough for the shifter base to clear, Correct?

even with the vibration, I would never go back to an auto.

 

Yes the hole must be large enough for that entire shift base to fit through. The 4 bolts that secure the shifter to the trans should stick just above the tunnel or about level with it.

-Gun

 

So in a nutshell, I should be able to take the shifter out without having to drop the tranny. Right?

 

So the attached picture is a snap of the cut job I did. Originally, the shifter was touching the tunnel and I hope I solved the problem without having to cut too much. I will be starting her up this afternoon to see if I solved the vibration issues.

 

3 things come to mind

1) you are way too worried about cutting on that damn tunnel

2) The photo shows inadequate clearance assuming the RMP trans mount has the same dimensions as a stock c4 trans mount.

3) all that said as long as nothing is touching it should work.


Ill post a photo in a while that shows how it should look.



Now you dont have to cut yours out all ugly like I did, the carpet will cover the hole in the tunnel as well as the shift boot if you dont have a console. The important thing to note is the two bolts to the far right of the image are level with the tunnel and do just barely touch before cutting. Plus being able to remove the shifter is important for dropping the trans in certain situations if the need should arise.

-Gun

 

Sooo?

 

Thanks for the picture Gun Jam. At this moment, mine clears the tunnel pretty well and does not contact at all.

However, After loosening all the mounts (Engine and Trans) and running the engine to see if it was not sitting right, cutting the tunnel to allow for more clearance, and removing the exhaust, the vibration still persist.

So onto the next steps.....

1. Replacing the flywheel.....

2. New pilot bearing... I opted to use the old copper style pilot bearing instead of the roller type. Could this be the issue?

3. New balancer.....


Any thoughts and suggest are welcomed.

 

I ran my T5 with the old bushing first, because I forgot to change it and was too lazy to unbolt the tranny. I had the vibration. I swapped T5's because of a 1st to 2nd crunch and put a new pilot "bearing" in while I was in there and the vibration was still there.

If you change the flywheel, put a bearing in while you are at it. It may not get rid of the vibration but it will help make sure the input shaft of the tranny doesn't get sloppy.

Whatever you do please post what you did to make the vibration go away, when and if you do. I know quite a few people would love to know.

I know for one that someone described my vibration as a car with solid motor mounts, which I know I don't have. I would love to get rid of this.

 

I will keep everyone posted.

A buddy of mine was reading somewhere that certain years they put on mixed weighted balancers and flywheels. For instance, a 28oz balancer with a 50oz flywheel. Anyone hear about this?