OCHOHILL

I wouldn't want to do it outside so a 2 car garage is a must.

basic tools:
engine hoist
floor jack
jack stands
$150 craftsmen american tool set
shop manual-very important
timing light
dwell meter
vacuum gauge
voltmeter
creeper
engine hoist mount-goes where carb is on manifold

steps to do more or less:
disconnect battery
get car on jackstands just enough to get under it
drain coolant
drain engine oil
remove air cleaner
remove carb
remove engine wiring harness
remove hoses
remove fan and spacer
remove radiator
remove flex plate cover and starter
disconnect torque converter from flexplate
connect hoist to intake manifold
lift slightly
pull motor mounts
slide jack under transmisson
pull motor

refer to shop manual for specific instructions

nothing about is real hard. However, you will need to tune it after reinstalling. There can also be a couple of gotcha's when mating the engine to the tranny. Patience and attention are key here.

unit91

Thanks. Nothing ventured, nothing gained!

flickjo68

Check around for a new longblock. I got my 302 longblock for $1200 with a 3 year warranty and could not be happier with it. IMO, this is way better than only fixing what needs it right now. This way you start all new and you know what you have. The added piece of mind is worth it to me. An engine swap on these cars is quite simple and a great way to learn about them. Just get a good manual. You could probably just buy a Harbor freight engine hoist, keep the box intact and keep the hoist clean and return it for a refund as long as you don't have it past the return policy. (Dishonest I know but if it works, hey!) I pulled my own engine 2 years ago when I was 19 and up until then the toughest project I had tackled was a brake job on my Dad's Tahoe or a fuel pump or heater core on my S-10. (Yeah I used to have Chevy's but I've learned the error of my ways and now drive my second F-150). lol

mr_velocity

Just make sure you do your research on the company you buy your long block from. I've heard horror stories from some places and the warranty wasn't worth the paper it was printed on. My problem is that I don't trust many people because I've seen too many people get burned.

If you're willing to spend the time to learn about the motors (I find it fun) and be willing to change your plans along the way then building your own is the way to go. When I got the 66 2 months ago I knew nothing about Ford motors. Man, what a wild ride its been. Rebuild the 289, no build a 351, no build a 302 using the old block from the 289 (my 289 was blown, bad rods and bad crank), 28oz imbalance, 50oz imbalance etc etc etc. In the end I have a machined 289/302 block, a disassembled 351 (bought for $100 w/ a c4) which I'll save for a big power build at some point in a few years and ended up with the pieces of a freshly machined 1990 302HO short block (complete) that includes the roller cam for $300 which came from my TRUSTED machine shop. So I'm going with the 302HO, having rotating assembly balanced then I'll do the assembly. Throw on a set of AFR heads and I got a real kick but motor. Spent weeks understanding heads D20Es, E7s GT40s, GT40X etc etc etc. Moving onto my AOD education next, get a cheap one and rebuild myself or buy a complete one ready to drop in is the question.

Really depends on what you want, how much time you're willing to spend learning this stuff and can you find space to do the work. It's not difficult and there there is a lot of information available. If you don't have the time or don't have interest in doing this yourself get yourself a crate motor. There are some great deals out there either way.

unit91

Appreciate everyone's input. A co-worker heard about my situation and has agreed to help me remove it. He has the hoist and all necessary tools, plus the know-how. Looks like I'm going to learn!