Caster/Camber '66 alignment question
Bought new suspension for my '66 FB from Global West. Tubular control arms
and adjustable strut rods, open tracker roller spring perch, KYB shocks. Now going to try alignment myself with Fastrax tool. Understand on stock arms shim to adjust caster at UCA but now with new style jointed LCA and adjustable strut do I set camber first with shims then caster with strut rod only ? Or a combination of shim/strut adjustmentfor caster ? Then toe in ?
Mark
and adjustable strut rods, open tracker roller spring perch, KYB shocks. Now going to try alignment myself with Fastrax tool. Understand on stock arms shim to adjust caster at UCA but now with new style jointed LCA and adjustable strut do I set camber first with shims then caster with strut rod only ? Or a combination of shim/strut adjustmentfor caster ? Then toe in ?
Mark
Focus on camber while ballparking caster first making an attempt to get both close using the shims with both side's caster adjustments somewhat neutral and even. Once camber is set, then focus on the separate caster adjustment as it will have little affect on camber at this point. Toe-in is the clean-up portion saved for last.
We do caster first, camber second then toe. Adding/removing shims to get the caster you want does change the camber. Adding/removing shims to change camber doesn't change the caster. Setting caster moves the ball joint forward or backward and that moves the ball joint in and out a bit. Setting camber just moves the ball joint in or out because you add/delete the same number of shims under each bolt.
OK Going to try your recs this weekend. Just concerned if I shim the front UCA
bolt to give 2-2.5 degrees caster maybe I won't be able to get back to 0 or minus camber. Just trying to plan how much to use new adjustable strut rod to get the desired caster . Thanks
bolt to give 2-2.5 degrees caster maybe I won't be able to get back to 0 or minus camber. Just trying to plan how much to use new adjustable strut rod to get the desired caster . Thanks
We do caster first, camber second then toe. Adding/removing shims to get the caster you want does change the camber. Adding/removing shims to change camber doesn't change the caster. Setting caster moves the ball joint forward or backward and that moves the ball joint in and out a bit. Setting camber just moves the ball joint in or out because you add/delete the same number of shims under each bolt.
We often put washers under the front bolt on the 67-70 cars to add some caster so you don't have to pull as much on the lower arm. It help keep the tire away from the front of the fender. We do it on the early cars too if they have a camber kit and adj. strut rods.


