Hi

I recently just rebuilt my 302. It has stock bottom end pretty much. It has a Sealed Pro cmashaft the part number is CS108R. I put Edelbrock Performer rpm heads and manifold on it. The carb is a Holley 670 cfm Avenger. My inginition is MSD with the 6A box. The engine only has about 30 miles on it and im new to this area. We broke it in the cam between 2k and 2,5k rpms for about 20 min. For one it when its cold i have to play with the pedal a bit to get it to start and then i have to have rpms at about 1000 or al ittle above till it warms up then it can idle. It sounds like i might be missing but im not to sure. I sputters wheni first accellerate sometimes and when im at high rpms it definately feels like a miss because it has a loss of power feel similar ot that of someone who cant drive a stick. Sometime i think i here what sounds like loose lifters but when we removed the valve covers and went to adjust them none of them made a sound even with reving. Its definately a ticking sound i here sometimes though. Is this all normal for an engine when breaking it in? Im worried im going to screw something up. Please help.

To add my timing is at about 6 degrees advance...it has a stall converter but stall is set at 2000 and it really doesnt stall at all.

 

Are you running a stock distributor, wiring, spark plugs??? Give us more about your full Ignition system, that is the best place to start for misses.

The cold part makes since, i have to do that with mine.

With dropping a new engine also I would believe that you had exhaust work done so an exhaust leak could possibly be the ticking noise. I have fallen victim to pulling my valve covers to try to fix a tick when it is exhaust.

Just my 2 cents

 

My distributor is an MSD billet distributor and the wires are MSD 8 mm and the spark plugs are champion...they are the ones edelbrock recommends for performer rpms heads. I have heddman long tube headers so im sure the ticking noise means i need to tighten them.

 

If the car is only having missing problems at high RPMs than it is most likely the distributor. I have a pro billet on my.

There are 2 advances on that distributor, 1 a vacuum and the other a mechanical. It seems like your timing is advancing to much through acceleration which is causing a timing issue or your missing. If your running vacuum than try blocking it off and do a test run. If you are not running vacuum go back to the distributor manual and read up on how to change the mechanical advance springs. It is quiet simple, just make sure you understand the graphs and what the higher tension spring does before you go changing things. The last mechanical advantage thing is the bushings that you can change, kind of hard to get to and change but do it if it seems necessary.

If you get stuck on the distributor just ask and I can help you out.

otherwise i would just get a timing light on it.

 

I put timming light on it and its at about 10 degrees advanced right now. I use the vacuum on the distributor so your saying to not use that and see how things run? do i plug where the distributor plugs into on my carb to?

 

Yeah plug both the vacuum coming from the distributor and coming from the carb, see how it runs, I run with mine plugged.

 

 

i had someone tell me to disconnect the distributor vacuum advance and run the rpms up to 3000 or 3500 and then time it to 34 degrees BTDC is that correct?

 

Depending on what the advance curve is, yes. I always time everything at full advance.

 

i have the msd billet distributor stock so i beleive the curve stops at 20 degrees at 4000rpms