Classic Mustangs (Tech) Technical discussions about the Mustangs of yester-year.

I need help guys

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Old Sep 10, 2010 | 10:46 PM
  #1  
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Phatboy
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Default I need help guys

I have read till Im blue in the face. There are so many different options Im dizzy. I am getting prepared to get my 67 coupe back on the road. Gonna be installing a 5.0EFI and 5spd. I know this is alot, but I would appreciate some help on a few concerns I have:

1. Upgrade the front drums to disk(diskbrakeswap.com(grenada style)). Question is will the rear drums interface with this kit?

2. I wont be racing this car save for the occasional drag, so are there options for upgrading the rear drums to modern components for reliability and ease of replacement?

3. I definitly want power steering, and a quick ratio box, but I have no idea which kit to run. I am not made of money, but I dont want a piece of junk either. Steering is important.

4. I will be doing the shelby drop on the front. I will need to replace the front springs and shocks. I will be running 225/55/17s up front, 275/45/17s out back. I want the fenders to sit just above the top of the tires. Can anyone recomend a spring for this, or is there an adjustable ride height kit/ coilover kit available that will mount in the stock locations. The rear height will be sorted by combination of new springs/shackles and blocks.

5. The car had a 390fe in it. I know I will need a different trans xmem, but what about the engine. Will the 302 mounts work with the 390 xmem?

Thanks in advance for any helps...I appreciate it.

Last edited by Phatboy; Sep 10, 2010 at 10:51 PM.
Old Sep 11, 2010 | 01:12 AM
  #2  
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Rear drums are fine as long as the master cylinder you are using is made for front disc and rear drums its fine.I believe you have to change out the motor mount brackets and the mounts.
Old Sep 11, 2010 | 02:54 AM
  #3  
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as for the breaks, when you contact Dennis (discbrakeswap), tell him what you need and he'll sort you out no problem. you can leave the drums in there in the back. just inspect them. make sure they pull even, pads arfe ok and drums are round
Old Sep 11, 2010 | 08:20 AM
  #4  
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Well, Im in the same boat. Im getting my 65 FB to "safe" mode ASAP. I just started the installation of a manual Rack n pinion today, after looking at the cost of a new gearbox and a roller pitman arm I ended up close on price at $770 shipped. I went with manual "Unisteer" from Summit.

For brakes I am looking at two options. The KH conversion kit from CSRP for $525, it's a fair deal at $525 but you would need to check it on a 67. I am also considering getting brackets and going the new cobra 13" setup. If you are running 17"s that may be an option, especially if you can source little parts and lines.

Coil overs are spendy, I am just going with springs. We have a sticky thread up top that may help you determine what to get.
Old Oct 25, 2010 | 11:13 PM
  #5  
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My 64.5 has OEM power steering and it is quite nice. It is a pleasure to drive. Main disadvantage is potential for leaks and not so much road feel.

My 67 has manual unisteer; bit harder to turn. Getting better as it is breaking in.
Will likely take 500 to 1000 miles before rack is fully lapped in. Recommend a lot of caster and some toe in till broken in. I believe rack preload is adjustable but I am afraid to touch it since it has lifetime warranty.

67 has OEM style 4 piston K/H front disc and it is very nice. Easy to install, bleed, change pads and to rebuild. Stops straight as an arrow. Has a lot of piston surface area; a good thing.
Old Oct 26, 2010 | 12:28 AM
  #6  
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I agree keep the rear drums and just get the right master cylinder. I do not know the condition of the rear brakes. I would probably rebuild them. There is not need to modify them.
Old Oct 26, 2010 | 12:44 AM
  #7  
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Default drum/drum master cylinder

I prefer the drum/drum mc for disc/drum conversion.
I remove residual pressure valve from mc port near firewall and keep residual pressure valve on forward mc port. I like to keep OEM hard lines to the MC.
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Old Oct 26, 2010 | 08:25 AM
  #8  
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1) I'd recommend the OE-style KH 4-piston brake kit from CSRP. I have it on my '67 and it works great. Absolutely no complaints. It's a superior system to the Granada setup, and it doesn't require changing your spindles.

2) Rear drums are fine. Make sure they're in good operating condition, which could mean new hardware and possibly new backing plates.

4) Springs should wait until you have the wheels/tires. See where the car sits, then adjust from there.

5) '67 is a weird year for mounts. '67 small block mounts will actually work on your current frame brackets. The problem is that these mounts are not the same as 66 and 68-70, despite what parts stores will tell you. To my knowledge, Glazier's is the only place that has them available new. So, you'll either need '67 specific small block mounts with your current frame brackets, or you'll need to change to '68 frame brackets and use the commonly available '66/'68-70 mounts.

The real question is, why are you replacing the FE? '67 S code cars don't exactly grow on trees. The car has much more value with the original drivetrain.
Old Oct 26, 2010 | 09:18 AM
  #9  
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001mustang
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Originally Posted by Starfury
1) I'd recommend the OE-style KH 4-piston brake kit from CSRP. I have it on my '67 and it works great. Absolutely no complaints. It's a superior system to the Granada setup, and it doesn't require changing your spindles.

2) Rear drums are fine. Make sure they're in good operating condition, which could mean new hardware and possibly new backing plates.

4) Springs should wait until you have the wheels/tires. See where the car sits, then adjust from there.

5) '67 is a weird year for mounts. '67 small block mounts will actually work on your current frame brackets. The problem is that these mounts are not the same as 66 and 68-70, despite what parts stores will tell you. To my knowledge, Glazier's is the only place that has them available new. So, you'll either need '67 specific small block mounts with your current frame brackets, or you'll need to change to '68 frame brackets and use the commonly available '66/'68-70 mounts.

The real question is, why are you replacing the FE? '67 S code cars don't exactly grow on trees. The car has much more value with the original drivetrain.
Right. No way I would loose the 390 big block.

I dunno why one would want granada brakes???

Maybe its time for us to have a long talk with phatboy; maybe phat had too much punch.

Last edited by 001mustang; Oct 26, 2010 at 10:41 PM. Reason: Got names wrong
Old Oct 26, 2010 | 10:29 PM
  #10  
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He mentioned the CSRP Granada kit in his original post.



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