Oh forgot to mention, im using a glass shard media its 30-60 grit.
is there anywhere online i can order SPI products? I cant find it for sale on there website

 

That is a old school rubberized undercoating that is soft and flexable. If you are going "correct" 100 point car it is a good choice.
If you want the newest and best product the bedliner is the way to go because it is so hard and sticks so well. Urerthane bedliner comes in a 2K (2 part) or a rattle can version.
Most auto parts stores sell the duplicolr brand. Here is an example of it and what the finished surface looks like
http://www.autobarn.net/aertrucbedco.html

 

There is also another truck bed product that rolls
http://www.herculiner.com/video_demos.html

 

Ya i saw the 3M stuff used in a guys youtube videos, and yes he is super old school, but really good....I deffinately want the newest best technology, thanks
I think ill try the 2 part since ill need lots of practice with the spray gun : ) can you use that stuff in a normal gun or do you need to get there special gun?

 

If you are going to spray bedliner on you need a special gun that as a big tip. SPI sells the bedliner and gun for a great price (Yeah big surprise).
http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com...0Bedliners.htm

BIG word of caution with the 2K bedliner though. it contains ISO's (like clear coat) and you MUST wear protective equipment like a paint suit and a respirator with organic filters. PLEASE read up on ISO's before you pull the trigger on the gun. Nasty stuff if you do not protect yourself. Just a word of caution so you are aware and make yourself safe.

 

i see your are in canada. Is your car rust free?

 

I did the whole bottom with POR15 followed by 2K primer then SEM Rockit bedliner, 1 gallon kit came with the gun for $90 from my local Sherwin Williams distributor. Don't cut corners on the bottom just because you don't see it.

 

Personally I wouldn't rush to get something on top of the epoxy. I would and did block sand the epoxy to make sure everything is flat. If you shoot a primer over the top of the epoxy you're going to have to strip it to do any filler work. Believe me, if you care about the final finish you WILL be doing a lot of filling.

2 coats of epoxy primer/sealer
block sand with a long board
do all the body work
shoot again with epoxy primer/sealer
block sand one more time
shoot 2k primer
sand with 600
base/clear

Most importantly READ THE INSTRUCTIONS for the product you're using. I can't count how many people complained about PPG K36 showing sand scratches. If you read their posts they were sanding with 80 grit before the primer. The K36 instructions CLEARLY say bare metal with 180-240 and painted surfaces with 320-400. WTF would they sand with 80 that complain????

Be very careful what you read "on the internet". Double check everything with the manufacturers tech sheet. All are available online.

I should also add a disclaimer. My "play" time is very valuable so I will always use the best products I can find. There is no way I'll spend a 100 hours block sanding the car only to paint it with the cheapest product I can find. To me it doesn't make much sense. Not everyone sees it this way.

 

Epoxy is designed to to have body work done on top of it. This includes high build primer and body fillers. If your body is perfect then you can skip all body work and move to top coats but few, if any are. By spraying the high build (within the window) on top of the epoxy you are golden with the 7 day recoat window. This window is so the epoxy chemically adheres to the next coat on top of it. If you go outside the window you can have delamination of the paint and failure.
You will have high and low spots and the high build with a guide coat on top of high build will give you enough cushion to keep you from burning through the the epoxy and down to metal. Epoxy is also not really designed to be sanded and 2 coats will not really give you lots of material to sand. It is intended to be used as a rust preventer.

2 coats of epoxy (SPI)
2-3 coats of high build primer (SPI)
Guide coat (3M guide powder)
block sand with a long board
find low/high spots and do body work (RAGE FILLER)
1 WET coat of reduced epoxy primer (reduced 10-50%)
sand with 600
wax grease remover
tack rag down everything
base/clear

I am not a professional painter but have painted a few cars. Please go over to the professional painters forum at Hotrodders and verify all information with the pros that are there. Pay attention to what Martin, shine, BarryK (owner of SPI), Jon and deadbodyman have to say. http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/body-exterior/

 

Great info, I wasn't sure if you could fill over the high build primer. The line of epoxy I'm using from Dupont has a no sand window of 24 hours

Polyesters (fillers) will not chemically bond to epoxy I'd also wait beyond the recoat time before applying. I could be wrong, but all the structural work I've done with poly, vinyl and epoxy resins were like that.

Glad you recommended Rage filler, used up a gallon of it so far but must of it is dust on the floor.