Suspension time
Thread Starter
4th Gear Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 1,027
From: NJ
Suspension time
Now that the paint is done its time to focus on the suspension. What the general consensus on Total Control Products UCA? I like being able to adjust without shimming the crap out of them but I don't know anyone actually using them. Already have the holes drilled for the shelby drop.
5th Gear Member
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,258
From: So. California
Unless you are going to be autoXing the car those are very pricey. I would stick with some stockers and roller spring perches, and a negative wedge kit for the shelby drop. spend that $700 bucks somewhere else.
6th Gear Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 5,896
From: Elk Grove, CA
If you really want something like that, I'd suggest taking a trip over to Shaun @ Street Or Track. His tubular arm setup is superior to TCP's in several aspects.
Otherwise, if you want something better than stock but not outrageous, look at something from OpenTracker Racing. Even the basic control arms he offers will work for most use. They come deburred and with the nuts welded to keep them from backing off. He also offers rollerized and boxed versions.
Otherwise, if you want something better than stock but not outrageous, look at something from OpenTracker Racing. Even the basic control arms he offers will work for most use. They come deburred and with the nuts welded to keep them from backing off. He also offers rollerized and boxed versions.
Thread Starter
4th Gear Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 1,027
From: NJ
If you really want something like that, I'd suggest taking a trip over to Shaun @ Street Or Track. His tubular arm setup is superior to TCP's in several aspects.
Otherwise, if you want something better than stock but not outrageous, look at something from OpenTracker Racing. Even the basic control arms he offers will work for most use. They come deburred and with the nuts welded to keep them from backing off. He also offers rollerized and boxed versions.
Otherwise, if you want something better than stock but not outrageous, look at something from OpenTracker Racing. Even the basic control arms he offers will work for most use. They come deburred and with the nuts welded to keep them from backing off. He also offers rollerized and boxed versions.
The Opentracker UCA with the roller is more expensive then the TCP UCA and its not adjustable. Not sure why I would want to go this route unless the TCP UCA is not good.
I guess the first real question is "Is there really an advantage to having an adjustable UCA?"
Global West also has a nice UCA, though not adjustable.
Last edited by mr_velocity; Oct 27, 2010 at 07:50 AM.
6th Gear Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 5,896
From: Elk Grove, CA
Street or Track's website
You don't absolutely need adjustable UCA's. They're good for racing/autocross to allow you to adjust your camber curve and give yourself a little bit of caster adjustment without shims, but you don't want to use them to set your alignment (which is what happens a lot with the TCP arms). Both arms need to be set to the exact same length, otherwise you end up with different camber curves on each side of the car.
The higher priced rollerized UCA's on OpenTracker's site are boxed as well, and are designed for vintage legal racing situations where you can't run tubular suspension. Yes, they're a bit overkill for most cars. But if you call John (he runs ORP), I'm sure he could make you a pair of rollerized, unboxed arms. He used to have them on the website, in fact. Or you could just get his standard arms, which start off as Moog arms but go through his deburring and tack welding process.
You don't absolutely need adjustable UCA's. They're good for racing/autocross to allow you to adjust your camber curve and give yourself a little bit of caster adjustment without shims, but you don't want to use them to set your alignment (which is what happens a lot with the TCP arms). Both arms need to be set to the exact same length, otherwise you end up with different camber curves on each side of the car.
The higher priced rollerized UCA's on OpenTracker's site are boxed as well, and are designed for vintage legal racing situations where you can't run tubular suspension. Yes, they're a bit overkill for most cars. But if you call John (he runs ORP), I'm sure he could make you a pair of rollerized, unboxed arms. He used to have them on the website, in fact. Or you could just get his standard arms, which start off as Moog arms but go through his deburring and tack welding process.
Thread Starter
4th Gear Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 1,027
From: NJ
Street or Track's website
You don't absolutely need adjustable UCA's. They're good for racing/autocross to allow you to adjust your camber curve and give yourself a little bit of caster adjustment without shims, but you don't want to use them to set your alignment (which is what happens a lot with the TCP arms). Both arms need to be set to the exact same length, otherwise you end up with different camber curves on each side of the car.
The higher priced rollerized UCA's on OpenTracker's site are boxed as well, and are designed for vintage legal racing situations where you can't run tubular suspension. Yes, they're a bit overkill for most cars. But if you call John (he runs ORP), I'm sure he could make you a pair of rollerized, unboxed arms. He used to have them on the website, in fact. Or you could just get his standard arms, which start off as Moog arms but go through his deburring and tack welding process.
You don't absolutely need adjustable UCA's. They're good for racing/autocross to allow you to adjust your camber curve and give yourself a little bit of caster adjustment without shims, but you don't want to use them to set your alignment (which is what happens a lot with the TCP arms). Both arms need to be set to the exact same length, otherwise you end up with different camber curves on each side of the car.
The higher priced rollerized UCA's on OpenTracker's site are boxed as well, and are designed for vintage legal racing situations where you can't run tubular suspension. Yes, they're a bit overkill for most cars. But if you call John (he runs ORP), I'm sure he could make you a pair of rollerized, unboxed arms. He used to have them on the website, in fact. Or you could just get his standard arms, which start off as Moog arms but go through his deburring and tack welding process.
Thread Starter
4th Gear Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 1,027
From: NJ
the street or track stage 4 and 5 front end kits look pretty cool. Will have to call shaun and decide which I'm going with.
When it comes to the back, should I change the springs and lower the back of the car by 1"?
When it comes to the back, should I change the springs and lower the back of the car by 1"?
Last edited by mr_velocity; Oct 27, 2010 at 11:34 AM.
5th Gear Member
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,258
From: So. California
If not too concerned with price why not go with a 3 link or 4 link system. allow you to run a much wider tire with a lil tub job. best mod I ever did on mine.
Thread Starter
4th Gear Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 1,027
From: NJ