it wouldnt be caliper problem since it pulls towards both sides..The camber wouldnt cause those issues but caster might.

 

There's actually a ton of things that can cause that....especially since the car is modified.

First off, replace the steering box, I can guarantee you it's toast. After all those years, no maintenance, and old technology, they fail. New FR boxes are well worth the money. Also, yes, you need to get the wheels off and inspect the crap out of the front AND back end.

What are the front wheel and tire sizes? What back spacing? Did the brake kit move anything in or out as far as wheel mounting? How is brake bias being set? What rear configuration are you running, ie how are the links set, does it have a panhard or watts, what shock/spring setup etc, what's it set up for? Has the rear housing been changed? What rear tires does it have? What backspace? Is it tubbed or mintubbed?

Answer those questions first, it'll rule out a suspension misconfiguration.

 

Maybe another thing to look at is that with a upper control arm drop plus 1 inch shorter springs with a coil cut off could cause some issues with the upper ball joints. The angle is changed a lot with these mods and maybe is changed enough, so the angles of the upper ball joints are causing some binding or they can even break. You may need a negative wedge kit that corrects the angle of the ball joints for these mods. I know there are different opinions on this subject, just a thought.

 

When you apply the brakes, the strut rod is pulled compressing the rubber bushing at the front of the rod. This moves the lower control arm and the spindle which constantly changes the alignment. This could be the pull you are feeling when applying the brakes. After some thought, if your steering box is really bad, I suppose your front steering components could be choosing one side or the other in the slop when the brakes are applied. That could explain why sometimes it pulls to one side and then the other. From a dead stand still you should be able to feel the slop in the box when lightly turning the steering wheel. I am curious how much slop you have under that condition.

FYI, a solid mounted adjustable strut rod is really the only fix for the strut rod issue.

 

you know that excenter the post 66 have at the lower arm. maybe that is loose? the one you use for adjutsing. just a thought. go back to aligment and see if everything is still in place. and while they align hafe them check the suspension. a hard pull to left or right should be easy find as somethign has to be loose

 

Could this be bump steer? Otherwise I would say that something is really loose or out of alignment. Could the rear end be steering the car?

There is just NO WAY your wife would drive that car with 16:1 manual steering. Back in the day I had a 19:1 manual steering car with skinny front radials and turning effort was off the charts at low speeds.

 

Im running the FR 16:1 gear box all MS with PS to MS conversion kit on the drag link and a 13" steering wheel..thats it... Steering effort is not an issue and I'm not a big person by any means are the FR gear boxes that much smoother?

-Gun

 

Same here. Even stationary it's not that big of a deal.

 

After first test drive I like to jack car and verify every thing is tight; ball joints, idler, etc. Return it to alignment shop to see if they(???) made error.

I like the OEM ford box. You can adjust on car. Must disconnect pitman arm. Set shaft bearing preload and worm gear preload. If it is too old you can't achieve proper preload lock to lock so you will have to live w/ play or rebuild. Do not tighten more than spec or else it's gunna die.

 

fronts are 17x8 215/40
rears are 18x9.5 295/35
nothing rubs as far as braking or backspacing. wheels were custom ordered with specific spacing however I cant remember what it was.

4 link runs parallel bars w/ panhard bar coilovers set at about 30 degrees or so. set up for street/drag. nothing extreme. rear housing is a 9'' detroit locker. mini tubbed