How do I detach the differential from the axle housing? I unbolted everything and it's still stuck. Am I suppose to pry and tap it out? Or Do i need to detach the driveshaft yoke first?



Thanks

 

Did you take the axles out yet?

 

yup, axles are out.

 

If the axles are out and all the nuts are off from around the 3rd member then it should come out. If the factory copper washers are still there they can cause some difficulty in removing the 3rd member. The yoke does not need to be removed to get the 3rd member out.

 

on your pciture all the bolts are still in place. axles oput, then unbolt the 9 or 10 on the ourside and you can pull the differential out.
Someone might have used silicone as a gasket so you might need to pry and cut a bit

 

I did unbolt it and the entire assembly did not budge. I'll just have to be extra careful prying it apart. Just wanted to double check before I go and damage something important.

I left the tag at home, but I think it's the original gears, which should be 2.73? I was going to bring it to the machine shop and have them take a look at it. How much does rebuilding it normally cost? The holiday season is coming I need to be extra careful with my budget... :/

 

Sorry to hijack but while people are thinking diffs. Mine has no tags on it, what the best way to identify what is might be? Its not original, all I was able to get out of the PO is "its a 9 inch posi". I does have disk brakes.

 

67_newb:
if you want the ratio, either disasseble and count teeth on ring and pinion. disassembled you'll see if it's open or "posi/locking". you can always shove in the axles and count as below, but since you're ripping it apart ....

mr_velocity
1. first thing identify if it's 8" or 9"

if there are bolts that you cannot possibly open with wrench and socket (need a spanner to get in there), then it's a 9". The 9" housing is more 'round' compared to more 'oval' 8"
(spot the difference in the picture compared to first post?)

2. identify if it's open or locking
simply hold the yoke in place (so it cannot turn) and turn on of the axles. if the other axle goes opposite direction it's open (standard) rear end. if it goes same direction it is locking type

3. check the ratio
block 1 axle, make sure yoke can turn
if in car only lift one side of car and have car in neutral

turn one wheel (axle) and count how many revolutions at wheel it takes for the yoke to turn exactly once.
this is your ratio. If it's open rear end you will have to double the number

for example it's open rear end and it takes 1.75 turns for yoke to turn once->3.5:1 ratio
for example it's posi/tracloc and it takes 3.7 turns for yoke to turn once->3.7:1 ratio

 

Mine was a bear to separate.

I tapped utility knife blades in seam at various locations.

That clam finally decided to pop open.

 

When it's still in the car can be easiest sometimes. remove all bolts, jack under pinion and generally a little bouncing on the bumper breaks her loose.