Hot Hot Hot
#1
Hot Hot Hot
Car was overheating so I changed thermostat as it was sticking, put in a 180 and it was fine on the motorway but in stop and go traffic it rose slowly to 210 and decided to stop there, i was a bit leary so i shut her off.
after few hours when i went home, same thing but this time was lingering around the 205 mark. car wont run hot on the motorway only in stop and go traffic and climbing long roads.
its still warm here, around 85 degrees, i have a stock 302 with some minor mods and have a 21 inch radiator. what you guys think? by the way i rebuilt top end of motor last year, new water pump and new flex fan.
after few hours when i went home, same thing but this time was lingering around the 205 mark. car wont run hot on the motorway only in stop and go traffic and climbing long roads.
its still warm here, around 85 degrees, i have a stock 302 with some minor mods and have a 21 inch radiator. what you guys think? by the way i rebuilt top end of motor last year, new water pump and new flex fan.
#4
IMO 205, 210, or even 220 doesn't bother me much. Of course this means that the cooling system is operating at capacity, but so long as you are not spewing coolant (boiling over) it is not going to hurt your 302.
I doubt any Impala radiator will fit, (width issue??), but there are a slew of economical replacement (bolt in) radiators that will do a good (better) job of keeping your Mustang cool.
I doubt any Impala radiator will fit, (width issue??), but there are a slew of economical replacement (bolt in) radiators that will do a good (better) job of keeping your Mustang cool.
#5
Ford considered 220°F to be the overheat point.
Your radiator is probably adequate, but should be used with a shroud and thermal clutch fan, not a flex fan.
Since you say the overheat occurrs at low speeds, I'm betting the Distributor Vacuum Control Valve is disconnected or removed. It's function is to speed up the idle of a hot engine to cool it off.
Your radiator is probably adequate, but should be used with a shroud and thermal clutch fan, not a flex fan.
Since you say the overheat occurrs at low speeds, I'm betting the Distributor Vacuum Control Valve is disconnected or removed. It's function is to speed up the idle of a hot engine to cool it off.
#8
dist control valve, took it out to install temp sensor for new guage, thought it didnt need it. how in earth does it work, speeds up rpms to help cool engine how? by making fan turn faster?
also in this case, is it better to install a 195 thermostat instead of 180?
also in this case, is it better to install a 195 thermostat instead of 180?
The DVCV has a temp bulb, if the water reaches 220°, it changes the vacuum advance from the ported connection on the carb to manifold vacuum. The manifold vacuum increases the advance, which causes the engine to idle faster, which causes the fan and water pump to run faster, which cools the engine.
#9
so let me get this straight, if i install the 195 thermostat, what would the temp go up to logically before it cools down? 205? or as soon as it hits 195, thermostat opens and cool water runs through engine cooling down the temp instantly?
Next question, i have a fan shroud of course and the flex fan. ill check out the thermo fan but isnt it better to install electric fans?
my radiator is 21 inch, isnt it small?
Next question, i have a fan shroud of course and the flex fan. ill check out the thermo fan but isnt it better to install electric fans?
my radiator is 21 inch, isnt it small?
#10
Hiya Cyprus. if you have no issues at highway speed it's kinda safe to say that the radiator is sized properly. So from this I'd say fan as well.
The thermostsat: it will try and keep the engine at the specified temperature
if too cold it will close to allow more warm water. if too hot it will open to allow more water from radiator to cool. however if the car gets too hot the thermostat is fully open and there's nothig a thermostat can do anymore. if it's fully open, it's fully open.
The thermostat is used to regulate engine temperature but it can't help with overheating. only if the thermostat doesn't open it will cause overheating
check on what 2+2 said. if the thing switches to manifold vacuum it will advance by 10-12 degrees (or so) and that will increase idle speed helping with cooling. I find advancing ignition helps with mine already
So I have mine hooked up to manifold vacuum at all times. you need to know exactly how that works, so doing it like me needs knowledge with timing gun.
what I'd do in your case:
1. get the DVCV. it will help (i don't have one, but the physics on this are clear)
2. measure the diameter of the crank pulley and the waterpump pulley and post them. If your crank pully is bigger than crank pulley it will cause the water pump and fan to run too slow (great for HP, utter crap for traffic)
3. change the flex fan to a thermo fan. I'm going to do that after winter no matter what (No problems, but will still do it)
electrical fan: well your car ran for 40 years, probably in TX or CA without a problem. So why would you need one in Cyprus. There's too mjuch that can go wrong and I don't like the additional wiring, so I'm staying away from it). I don't think it is much more efficient than a thermo clutch fan setup
The thermostsat: it will try and keep the engine at the specified temperature
if too cold it will close to allow more warm water. if too hot it will open to allow more water from radiator to cool. however if the car gets too hot the thermostat is fully open and there's nothig a thermostat can do anymore. if it's fully open, it's fully open.
The thermostat is used to regulate engine temperature but it can't help with overheating. only if the thermostat doesn't open it will cause overheating
check on what 2+2 said. if the thing switches to manifold vacuum it will advance by 10-12 degrees (or so) and that will increase idle speed helping with cooling. I find advancing ignition helps with mine already
So I have mine hooked up to manifold vacuum at all times. you need to know exactly how that works, so doing it like me needs knowledge with timing gun.
what I'd do in your case:
1. get the DVCV. it will help (i don't have one, but the physics on this are clear)
2. measure the diameter of the crank pulley and the waterpump pulley and post them. If your crank pully is bigger than crank pulley it will cause the water pump and fan to run too slow (great for HP, utter crap for traffic)
3. change the flex fan to a thermo fan. I'm going to do that after winter no matter what (No problems, but will still do it)
electrical fan: well your car ran for 40 years, probably in TX or CA without a problem. So why would you need one in Cyprus. There's too mjuch that can go wrong and I don't like the additional wiring, so I'm staying away from it). I don't think it is much more efficient than a thermo clutch fan setup