Classic Mustangs (Tech) Technical discussions about the Mustangs of yester-year.

289 to 331 stroker

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Old Nov 12, 2010 | 01:57 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by Starfury
I haven't dyno'd the car, but with Trick Flow heads and a Magnum 280H cam, I'm guessing at ~350hp/350ft-lbs (based on some more optimistic numbers coming out of desktop dyno). More than enough to scoot my fastback around.

You could build either motor to accept some boost, you'd just have to factor that in while choosing components. Even with 6psi boost, it would be easy to get above the 400hp mark and still have a perfectly streetable motor.

However, I'd consider going with a 351W based stroker before choosing a blown 289/302 stroker. You can make much the same numbers out of a properly built 383 without having to worry about tuning with the blower.
Which trickflows did you use? Summit has some trickflows on sale for $999 but I really wanted the track heats which are not on sale.
Old Nov 12, 2010 | 06:16 PM
  #12  
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Twisted Wedge Street/Strip heads, 170CC. Plenty for a street driven car under 400hp. The Twisted Wedge design is really what you're getting a benefit from. You can open up the ports as much as you want, but it won't help until you unshroud the valves, which is what the Twisted Wedge design does. Flow under .050" is greatly improved vs standard wedge heads.

But if you shoot for a motor that's going to be more wild than mine, the Track Heats may be the way to go.
Old Nov 13, 2010 | 02:05 AM
  #13  
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The Twisted Wedge heads are a bit deceptive on port size. They may only be 170cc..."only"....but the valve rotation places the intake valve closer to the manifold, so it has a larger port cross section which lets it flow better. They'll typically outperform most other heads with similar port sizes.
Old Nov 13, 2010 | 04:09 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by Starfury
Twisted Wedge Street/Strip heads, 170CC. Plenty for a street driven car under 400hp. The Twisted Wedge design is really what you're getting a benefit from. You can open up the ports as much as you want, but it won't help until you unshroud the valves, which is what the Twisted Wedge design does. Flow under .050" is greatly improved vs standard wedge heads.

But if you shoot for a motor that's going to be more wild than mine, the Track Heats may be the way to go.
That's what I wanted to hear. Summit has them on sale for $999 I was thinking track heats to get the 10 degree locks and the 7/16 studs.
Old Nov 13, 2010 | 10:04 PM
  #15  
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How burly of a motor are you going to be running? You don't absolutely need those things for most builds. And you can always switch hardware later if you need to. I swapped in 7/16" studs on mine simply because I already had a set on my last heads, along with matching roller rockers. Does me fine, and I run the motor up to 6k.
Old Nov 14, 2010 | 08:11 AM
  #16  
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Not going crazy initially but you never know what will be next. I have a 351 sitting in the corner of the shed that will eventually be built. Right now we're just doing a roller 302.
What does it take to change the studs?
Old Nov 14, 2010 | 12:38 PM
  #17  
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A breaker bar, socket, torque wrench, and new studs and rockers.
Old Nov 14, 2010 | 03:00 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Starfury
A breaker bar, socket, torque wrench, and new studs and rockers.
Great, I was thinking I had to drill the holes bigger and retap them.
Old Nov 14, 2010 | 07:55 PM
  #19  
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I turn 6,500rpm with pedestals. In reality a pedestal setup has less movement, but can't handle the higher spring pressures that you see with large race cams, and they can't be adjusted.

I always recommend 10* locks/retainers though.
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