Iskwezm is kinda right i have towed a lot of cars at night with the alarm screaming no one ever looks out.A alarm will get you a small discount on your insurance so call your agent once you get it hooked up.

 

I have to second the electrical issue. If anything a carbed engined puts MUCH less load on an electrical system....in fact it puts just about none. No injectors no electric fuel pump and no ECM just a single coil and a starter. Some of these new engines drain 35 amps at idle.

 

How is electric start going to squirt a little fuel into the manifold like you do with your right foot working the accelerator pump? EFI engines directly inject fuel at roughly normal fuel system operating pressure over the programmed injector "open" time (plus a cold start enrichment correction), so they don't have this issue. Even a crude throttle body injection system does this, but a completely mechanical carb cannot.

Cranking speed isn't going to pull as much vacuum as idling at 600 rpm does. That tells me that you'll either have to crank longer in order to get enough fuel to actually ignite, or that you'd possibly fatten up the idle mixture to crutch this (and put up with running slightly rich all the time). This will be more of a problem on a cold start first thing in the morning during the cooler months, but isn't that more or less what remote start is supposed to be helping you deal with?

The longer you use heavy current draw out of the battery, the more the alternator has to put back in. Alternators aren't really designed to be used as battery quick-chargers, and making them work up close to their maximum output for very long or very often tends to be hard on them. Again, I'm not trying to make this out to be a deal-breaker. Just something to keep in mind. Engineering a reliable system means that you have to look at all of the things that directly or indirectly support it.


Tcote - your 110-amp alternator should be fine (it's at least double what the car originally came with), though I'd be inclined to run 2 gauge to ground and to the starter. At a starter draw of perhaps 200 amps with the battery voltage pulled down to a little over 10 while that's going on, even a hundredth of an ohm extra is meaningful. But search this site on the term "luckydawg" (who was ultimately very "unlucky") for what can happen if the NSS switch either shorts internally or is intentionally bypassed.


Norm

 

Cool features in that alarm, that is a lot of stuff. The one thing I like about my old Clifford alarm is a code I have to hit within 90 seconds after starting the car. If someone hot wires and drives off, they only have 90 seconds before the ignition is cut and the siren and lights go off.
I also did the proximity sensors etc. Like andrewmp6, I do not lock it, way too easy to cut the top.

 

I think Norm had some good points that I'm glad he brought up. I wouldn't have thought of them beforehand.

But overall I still think this is a good peace of mind thing for me. I don't know that I'll be messing around with the remote start or power windows and doors, but the alarm is a definite plus. Especially the proximity and heat sensors that all go to the remote, I really like that.

 

Hey guys.
I have the remote start feature in my wife's 66. It is absolutly useless unless you add a few solenoids. A cold engine requires the driver to prime the carb by stepping on the accelorator a few times. This can be done but you need to have pre-heater options in your alarm system. That would trigger the gas pedal to be depressed.
On the other hand, it a wonderful feature once the engine has been running. Its starts and runs like a champ after the fact.

But before you attempt this please be aware that your alarm might not have overspeed protection. If for some reason the accelarator gets stuck because of a faulty actuator, you are screwed. I have totally disabled the remote start becouse of this potential problem.

 

So then that would be a NO, you havent installed one and basing this all on theory? I think your reading too much into it rather then having having ever installed one or know the actuall features and how to make it work.

 

Dont beat Norm up. If he did or didnt try it is irrelevant. He make a valid point. He thought it , I did it, It doesnt work. He was smart enough to save some time and not even attempt it. Unlike me .

 

It is relevant.I absolutely hate when people say something cant be done, becasue they havent did it,dont know how to do it or use theory to prove that it doesnt work. I have done it, many times and it some worked right off the bat and some needed some tuning.His points seem to be based on his opinion.

Theres too many people that give wrong informationon all subjects(not aimed at you Norm) that like to reference what they read or saw, not what they did and have first hand knowledge.These forums can be helpful and also misinform people that dont know any better.I do know alarms and electrical,ive been installing them for over 15 years as well being a MECP installer and also Ford trained ASE master tech, so i know how fuel injection works and whats needed to make a remote start work on a carb.

 

So you were able to get it to work without actuators? if so, spill the beans.
I went into the 3rd crank cycle and didnt like it one bit. I rather not burn a starter. I had tuned my carb with an air fuel ratio kit. So I know its tuned. I think tuning it for a leaner idle may work but I wouldnt like to have the car setup for a lean idle.