yea its set to -1 right now...Ill take wheels in next week. As for tonight im go cruisin!!

 

+-1 should be okay (minimum tolerable limit)...have fun

 

Now that I think about it you said the shop reported bad U joints? what was the pinion angle during during the short life span of these joints? How accurate do you think your measurements are?

if you run a very shallow angle that approaches zero it will beat the crap out of the u joints and they will fail prematurely.

-Gun

 

Gun

no i have not done it yet. i am going to do it tomorrow. I start getting the Vibe about 70mph then it gets worse. It seems to stabalize about 110mph. I frequently hit 120-125 and it is a bad vibe but i have done nearly everything.

Here is a list of parts i have replaced
Rear End-went to a 8.8 exploder and set the pinion angle. (no change)
New drive shaft complete, including the yolk and bushing. ( no change)
different rear wheels and tires (no change)
changed the T5 mount that i made to a professionally manufactured unit (no Change)
replaced the T5 with a 92 cobra spec unit (no change)

When i was installing the new cross member, i noticed a small wear spot on the rubberized undercoating. That stuff doesn't come off easy. so as i looked around i came to the conclusion that it is rubbing on the tunnel support when it is under load.

And since i need to get under it to weld the power steering drop bracket (it keeps coming loose) on i am going to lower the trans and beat the tar out of the support.

 

I would definitely make sure its not touching anywhere...some how i managed to forget about that during our previous discussion. if you push your car that hard that often with a 3.73 i sure hope you are running a 3" drive shaft preferably Al.

The trick is its gotta just miss..maybe place some washers under it so it buys you a 1/16" clearance.

 

because of the way the mount is made you cant use washers. there is really no way to lower it with the cross member. I was wondering if the ron morris mounts will allow the engine to drop a little. that might just do it.
I am going to take a look now. Im also getting ready to throw the jack under the car.

I am running a drive shaft out a 92 fox LX that i had shortened to fit my 66

 

why would setting the pinion to close to zero wear the u joints. I thought on a four link the angle is only suppost to be down a degree or two because there really is no axle wrap like in a leaf spring set up. Or were you talking to Billy? Im getting confused

 

The instructions that came with my Rod and Custom 4 link says "4 degrees positive meaning the yoke is pointing upwards toward the floor 4 degrees."

 

there might be some confusion. the pinion should point up around 4 degrees when the car is standing on flat level. but then there is the angle between the U-joints which should be straight. some alter that by 1 degree so that under load they are straight

so basically the angles in the u-joint should be the same front and back. if your transmission points down 3 degrees (towards back), the axle should point 3 degrees up towards front. when you have the driveshaft in there, the angle between transmission and driveshaft should be 3 degrees or less. the angle between pinion and driveshaft should be the exact same just opposite. That's a given from setting them up like that

there's a document from Inland Empire Driveline, check on that
http://www.iedls.com/asp/admin/getFi...&TID=28&FN=PDF

 

So, i did drop the trans and look at the tunnel. there is a small wear spot but i think that it my have been from my old trans mount.

So i happened to notice that the oil pan is touching the lower engine cross member just a little bit. maybe that is a contributing factor.
Who knows. i will dimple the oil pan to give it some clearance.