Homebuilt coilover system
01-21-2011, 08:04 AM
#41
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: NJ
Posts: 1,027
Totallystainless.com sells Grade 8 ARP stainless steel bolts.
01-26-2011, 03:27 PM
#43
5th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: So. California
Posts: 2,258
Little upadate...I finished putting everything together And got the car on the ground...ride height was a touch higher so I had to order one size smaller shock and springs.
These adjustable QA1s are sweet. you can reach in without jacking the car up and give the shock a couple clicks and make a huge difference in the stiffness of the ride. Im going to order a pair for the rear.
once I get these shocks in I can mount them up and head down to the alignment shop!
These adjustable QA1s are sweet. you can reach in without jacking the car up and give the shock a couple clicks and make a huge difference in the stiffness of the ride. Im going to order a pair for the rear.
once I get these shocks in I can mount them up and head down to the alignment shop!
01-26-2011, 05:55 PM
#45
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: state of confusion
Posts: 7,635
I hope they
(a) know what they're doing with an older car with custom suspension parts
(b) will align to specs suited to those new parts and not just "put it somewhere in the green for OE". Your specs, if you've got a good idea where to start.
Norm
(a) know what they're doing with an older car with custom suspension parts
(b) will align to specs suited to those new parts and not just "put it somewhere in the green for OE". Your specs, if you've got a good idea where to start.
Norm
01-26-2011, 07:02 PM
#46
5th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: So. California
Posts: 2,258
I paid for one a lifetime alignment at a local shop(idiots) for $30 extra. Ill be there helping with the alignment so almost the same as if I did it. I suppose I could do it myself with the wheels off and use a angle finder on the discs to find camber. Toe in is easy but what about caster?
01-26-2011, 11:02 PM
#49
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: tn
Posts: 889
I have an alignment suggestion.
On my driver side spindle I can get a Caster reading directly on spindle arm using magnetic digital angle finder.
The passenger spindle is to rough to get a good caster reading.
If I ever have spindles out I will clean up the the flat verticle surface.
That way one can get an accurate caster reading from the spindle and an accurate camber reading from rotor while under car.
On my driver side spindle I can get a Caster reading directly on spindle arm using magnetic digital angle finder.
The passenger spindle is to rough to get a good caster reading.
If I ever have spindles out I will clean up the the flat verticle surface.
That way one can get an accurate caster reading from the spindle and an accurate camber reading from rotor while under car.
Last edited by 001mustang; 01-26-2011 at 11:06 PM.
01-27-2011, 12:10 PM
#50
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: state of confusion
Posts: 7,635
You have to do a little math to obtain a caster value. What you do is measure camber with the wheels turned some known angle, and then re-measure the camber with the wheels turned an equal amount the other way.
Caster = [some factor] x [the algebraic difference in the camber measurements]
That factor depends on the angle that you turned the wheels. Pretty closely, it's equal to 1 divided by two times the sine of the angle steered.
1.0 @ 30°
1.5 @ 20°
2.0 @ 14.5°
So if you steer the left front wheel to the left 20° and get +1.4° camber, then steer it 20° right and get -0.6° camber, your caster would be 1.5 x (1.4 - (-0.6)) = +3.0°. Since it is possible to have negative caster, I think you want to steer the left wheel left first, and steer the right wheel right first when doing that side to help keep things straight.
I have a write-up about DIY alignment if you're interested.
Norm