Recently, I have been toying with the idea of changing my gear ratio's. I have a 2.73 open 8inch right now and was thinking about changing to 3.55 posi. Its not a daily driver and I hardly ever take it on the highway when I do drive it.

The options I have considered are:
1. Getting a complete and ready to go 3rd member http://www.justrearends.com/Catalog....1-da2c936a3861 but I am not sure if I want to spend that kind of money.
2. I have already rebuilt the rear end a few years back, but never got it setup quite right (its whined ever since), so it has new bearings and seals. From prices I have found its going to be about 200 for a ring and pinion, and 400 for a carrier. So by time I have someone set it up for me I am looking at at least 750.
3. Search for a used 3rd member online or at Junkyards. The only problem I have with this is the lack of assurance, and the amount of time spent searching.
4. Nothing. Leave the rear end as it is and just save my money.

Right now I am leaning toward buying the parts and having someone do it.
What do you guys think? Are there any other ideas I should be considering? Is the fun factor worth the cost in your opinion?

Thanks, Brian

 

Brian,take your pumpkin out and have the gears redone with the ratio you want. There is no need to replace the housing or anything other than your gearset, bearings, thrust washers and seals. all of that is in the pumpkin except the axle seals and you can replace them yourself.

 

As long as the rearend is in good shape I would just throw some gears in it. I've had mine for 14 years now and still going strong.

http://www.drivetrainspecialists.com...8/randp-1.html

 

I would check with local shops that do differentials and ask how much to swap gears and install a tracloc, be sure to tell them you'll just bring the pumpkin in. Once it's set up you just have to reinstall.
I'd also look on fleabay, there's an 8in. 3.55 tracloc on there now <$200 with a day to go on bidding, the buy it now places start at $800 for an 8in. TL. I lucked out and picked up a 9in. local and tried to win a pumpkin on fleabay. When I lost the bid I contacted the shop selling it which was a few hours drive away and he said he could build me one for my last bid price. I dropped off my old open 8" rear and the conv. 9" pumpkin and he credited them towards the pumpkin he built me. Worked out cheaper in the end for me to switch to 9" than get a tracloc for my 8".
Jon

 

Your lucky day... I use to watch this ad, and ebay just sent me an e-mail they reposted at a cheaper cost. Just opened the e-mail 3 mins ago and was considering.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...RL%3AUS%3A1123

 

I would DIY change gears w/o posi upgrade for the cheapest fun.
Follow all specs.

 

I may just go with that... It would be the cheapest and easiest way about getting what I want.

 

Looks sweet.

I would like 3.55 but I do a lot of highway and care about mileage.

I plan to install lower 1st gear in my top loader one day. Probably will keep my 3.0 rear.

What kinda HP and torque are you running?

 

Be aware that what they are telling you is that the case you are getting is the early version that is weak in the pinion bearing support and lacks the vertical ribbing of the one shown in the picture.

Because your driving habits haven't caused any problems with your existing rear (which is probably the early case) as long as you don't start beating on it you'll be fine.

 

I don't know my rated horse power or torque but I do know what I have put into my car. I have a rebuilt stock 302 with: E7 heads, crane cams hydraulic energizer cam (part# 130042) and full roller 1.7 rockers, edelbrock performer rpm intake, Holley 600cfm carb, Mallory Unilite dizy, long tubed headers with generic fit dual exhaust. So for whatever you would want to estimate that horsepower and torque at, the only concern I have right now is whether or not the older style case will hold up to the power my engine is producing. Having done all this to the engine in the last 3 years I won't be changing anything else but will be moving on to steering, suspension, and breaks.