Sheet Metal advice
I am replacing the cowl on my 66 coupe. Except that I already have the driver side of the floor board removed, and the passenger side of the side cowl removed. I removed the side of the cowl to replace but had seen how bad the previous owners did on the job, so I went ahead and ordered the entire cowl to replace as it also needs it done. My question is, should I go ahead and first replace the entire floor first, then fix the side cowl panel, and then tackle the cowl as a whole? The other is how do I support the vehicle to replace the cowl so that it does not sag or loose alignment when I eventually remove the cowl? Thank you....
You're gonna have a problem with that cowl. It's a 64-65. You'll either have to re-use the old top, or perform a wiper hole transplant.
Best thing is to replace one piece at a time.
The cowl sets on top of the dash/firewall assembly, so it can be done as a single piece.
Best thing is to replace one piece at a time.
The cowl sets on top of the dash/firewall assembly, so it can be done as a single piece.
I ordered from CJ pony, it has the widshield molding pins with it and it is a two piece-upper and lower. I know it will be a challenge, but I am willing to accept it, I just dont want the car to loose alignment integrity.
I double, triple checked and it is for a 65-66 mustang. Thats beside the point, what I want to know is how do I brace the car so it will not sag and should I first replace the floor and side cowl prior to the entire cowl assembly?
There is no such thing as a 65-66 cowl. The 64 and much of 65 used the smoothie with the chrome bezel, toward the end of 65 they switched to the 'eyebrow' style. All 66 Mustangs had the 'eyebrow' style, but the repro cowl is the smoothie. Your supplier either doesn't know this, or doesn't care. This is your 66 cowl:

This is the 64-65 style you've bought:

This is how you brace the car to assure it doesn't end up distorted:
Mine is a late 65 and looks like the 66 cowl. I ordered a upper and lower cowl from lurual mt mustang the 65 one and it was the right one for mine. For bracing it i just put jack stands under the rails so they put pressure on the rails. Worked for mine still straight and true. As for the order i would do the cowl side just dont spot weld it to the cowl because it will have to be in place to weld the cowl to it and their is a allining hole that you will want to make sure is in the right place. The cowl can be done after all the other sheet metal work really doesnt matter mine was a full running and driving car when i did mine. Get some nice big allining rods makes the job alot better, after its allined put a few spot welds and then install the fenders to make sure gaps are good and everything is straight. Not a bad job at all i did my first one last year in about 2 days and its perfect have self control when getting it allined and dont rush it was the hardest part putting the hood and fenders on twice to get it right really annoyed me but end results were great.
Last edited by jp1967stang; Feb 1, 2011 at 08:48 AM.
Dont have any at the moment. Cant remember the month but my 65 is a very late one ill check the other 4 65's we have this weekend but i thought they all had the eyebrow style. Just wondering y u would be happy if this were the case.


