What Starter to Use ??
i am currently near the end of my 331 stroker journey with my 66 Fastback. i am ready for a starter. i need to go with a mini and was looking at DB electrical for one but with my set-up i'm not sure which one to go with.
was hoping someone else with a similar set-up could give me an Idea. i had my original 289 block made into a 331 Stroker. i am running a world Class T-5 for my trans.157 tooth flywheel. any suggestions would be much appreciated.
was hoping someone else with a similar set-up could give me an Idea. i had my original 289 block made into a 331 Stroker. i am running a world Class T-5 for my trans.157 tooth flywheel. any suggestions would be much appreciated.
Last edited by 1966-FASTBACK; Feb 17, 2011 at 06:39 PM. Reason: added description
Very true, and most parts houses sell them with a lifetime warranty (although I'd avoid Autozone and Pep Boys, as their rotating electrical is a joke). I think my last standard replacement starter cost me $35. I still have it in a box in the garage, just in case.
Still, I like the fact that my PMGR starter only weighs like 6lbs, and it spins faster and with more torque than a standard direct-drive unit. The car starts much quicker with it. Downsides are that it sounds like a Chrysler, and it draws a lot more juice so you can't crank it for as long without risking damage to the starter or your cables.
Still, I like the fact that my PMGR starter only weighs like 6lbs, and it spins faster and with more torque than a standard direct-drive unit. The car starts much quicker with it. Downsides are that it sounds like a Chrysler, and it draws a lot more juice so you can't crank it for as long without risking damage to the starter or your cables.
Last edited by Starfury; Feb 17, 2011 at 11:06 PM.
I ended up using a "stock" mini starter from a 95? Mustang with a 351 for my 39 project, I wanted to use a an old style starter but the headers I had to run would n ot allow this at all.
My son has a Powermaster on his 350 Chevy, when the sprag broke we were able to harvest one from a $35 rebuilt TOYOTA starter, a good save for a $200 unit.
Ever since then I have been kind of down on mini starters, (that was when I discovered his Powermaster was mostly a Toyota starter).....
They do have a compact kind of coolness though, and they are easier to put on and off.
The sprag failure was caused by the fuel injection flooding the **** out of the engine, and me grinding on it in near hydro-lock condition, it was not an out and out equipment failure, and the starter has worked great for about 5 years now.
Incidentally, the 351 Mustang starter I bought for my coupe was something less than $100, and it turns my 9.5 to 1 408 really well.
My son has a Powermaster on his 350 Chevy, when the sprag broke we were able to harvest one from a $35 rebuilt TOYOTA starter, a good save for a $200 unit.

Ever since then I have been kind of down on mini starters, (that was when I discovered his Powermaster was mostly a Toyota starter).....
They do have a compact kind of coolness though, and they are easier to put on and off.
The sprag failure was caused by the fuel injection flooding the **** out of the engine, and me grinding on it in near hydro-lock condition, it was not an out and out equipment failure, and the starter has worked great for about 5 years now.
Incidentally, the 351 Mustang starter I bought for my coupe was something less than $100, and it turns my 9.5 to 1 408 really well.
I second running a factory starter. We have a 61 galaxy dirt track car with a 351c and full length headers. It gets HOT under there with racing fuel and all, and it performs wonderfully. We did cover it in header wrap, but remember we are talking about an engine that runs and stays at 5400-6000+ rpm for very long periods of time.
Factory starters are cheap, they work very well, and they are easy to maintenance.
Factory starters are cheap, they work very well, and they are easy to maintenance.
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