How much easier is Mig welding? If you had an AC/DC 230v arc welder would you spend the $ to buy a small 115v Mig set up for small jobs, body panels, cowls, floor panels etc., or just arc those babies?

I just found out that we have a pretty new looking arc machine hidden back in the shop that I'll use for frame work, but what about the other, smaller jobs.

Oh,....and by the way, I don't know how to weld, I'll have a friend show me a few things and just start welding anything/everything that doesn't run from me!

 

MIG welding is a form of Arc welding (so is Stick, TIG and others). Are you referring to a Stick/SMAW welder? Those are typically used for very thick metals because they put down a lot of metal with a lot of heat. There are very few instances, if any, that you could/should use this on a mustang.

A MIG welder is probably your best bet. They are easy to learn and use compared to other forms and can weld both sheet metal and thicker frame stuff if you have a powerful enough welder. I don't think a 115v MIG will be able to handle the thicker metal jobs, but would probably do you just fine for floor pans and other thin sheet metal stuff.

Your other option is TIG, but these require a lot more skill, are more expensive, and I don't believe they can handle thicker metal. However, these will give you the cleanest, prettiest, welds.

 

Stick/SMAW, yes,...stick should be used for frames then 115 for the others?
I'm saying 115, cause other than the frame, all other jobs will be thin.

thanks.

 

No problemo, but I'm still not sure if stick is going to be appropriate. By thicker metals I mean like I-beams and such. Depending on what you are going to be doing with the frame, most of it will be plug welds (ie, welding the floor plan onto the frame rails). I'm not sure if stick welding is capable of doing plug welds, or if it is it will be tough. If possible I would just invest in a stronger MIG that can do anything on these old cars. What brand and amps you'll need to do this I'm not sure, I'm no welding expert. However, I think it would be a better use of your time to get really good at a nice MIG than trying to figure out both MIG and how to use stick on these old cars. Plus, the look and cleanliness of the welds are much nicer on a MIG than Stick.

I'm sure others will chime in as well on this subject, but also try doing a search. There should be a lot of info on this located on this forum.

 

Ah, let's put it this way. I briefly had an 11-year-old "assistant" last summer. Next time she's helping out, I'm gonna teach her to MIG weld.

Oh, and the same MIG that can be used to buttweld a sheetmetal floor section in can be dialed up to weld quarter-inch-thick reinforcing plates in a race car.

 

With a little practice, you can probably weld with reasonable success down to about 1/16" with a 230VAC buzz-box. Think exhaust tubing, which I have stick-welded when that was all I had available.

Forget about anything thinner, like the 20-gauge sheetmetal (~0.035") that most of your sheetmetal probably is.


Even with fluxcore wire, "MIG-welding" is do-able at least down to 22 gauge (0.030"), again with practice (and technique). If you're outdoors, you may have to use this stuff, even though it's a bit messy (think weld spatter here, which you also get with the sticks).

I really recommend stepping up to a small 220VAC MIG unit unless you absolutely need the portability and the ability to plug in anywhere (anywhere that won't have you constantly resetting the breaker anyway), as the 220 machines will let you work with thicker metal than the 110 units will. I've heard that you want about one rated amp per thousandth inch of metal thickness . . . you can probably cheat that a bit, but I wouldn't ask a little 110VAC machine to weld up a bracket made from 1/4" stock. 3/16", maybe.

Some years ago I bought a 220-VAC 150-ish amp Lincoln machine. I've used the 200+ amp buzzbox only a handful of times since.


Norm

 

I'd say you go with a MIG.

 

Mig is better on a car because of metal thinness.

 

I'm saying stick on the frame cause I want full tubs in the rear. There will be a crossmember near the end of the front seat, then narrowed, full rectangular rails welded to that crossmember to the rear. Fully street, I just like the pro Street look from the early 90's.

....then I can buy an inexpensive 115v, 70a MIG for the smaller thin wall jobs, Summit has a Lincoln full kit ready to go for $325.00. Any other good names less than that?

I'll probably just stick tack the frame and have a real welder friend weld it up, just to be sure.

Thanks

 

There will be times where you will need to have both voltage and wire speed control. 70A may be enough for sheetmetal art projects, but I'd look a little higher up the food chain for automotive use.


Norm