Dennis Marks

Thanks for commenting. I think the more I hear the more I think this might be the combination I am looking for. As soon as I get the engine in and a new coil over front, I'm going to a 6-speed. That way if I ever do want to take a trip it might make it a little more highway friendly. I realize the gears are tall but I did that knowing I would switch to a 6-speed eventually for what little highway driving I will do. Right now I have a tremendous fume problem and I have already covered the entire compartment in Second Skin. I am sort of at a loss to where or how to find the source. Any suggestions? Thanks again for jumping in.

eZ

where does your exhaust exit the car? What front coil-over are you going with?

Dennis Marks

[QUOTE=eZ;7481816]where does your exhaust exit the car? What front coil-over are you going with?[/QUOTE

I have no idea what coil over I am going to use. That is my next project. This engine stuff has taken me forever to get halfway knowledgeable about. I am open to suggestions but I haven't even read one thing about them yet. I am really new at this and learning as I go. I built cars in the 60's and times have changed greatly. As far as exhaust they come straight out the rear. Any ideas of anything or any way to find where the fumes are coming in? My wife refuses to ride with me until they are gone.

PaulS

Your cam will give you a "lumpy" idle but it is streetable. The overall package (carb, intake, cam, heads) are matched for the same rpm range so they will work together well but you will suffer some loss of low rpm and a loss of mpg.
I didn't notice any mention of headers - and you will need some headers to make the rest work well. A well thought out exhaust system will add to your performance.

Dennis Marks

Yes, I had thought of that. Currently I have NPD shorties, very inexpensive, with 2 1/2 inch pipes and Cherry Bomb mufflers, no crossover. I thought this might not be good enough. Any suggestions?

frdnut

If your pipes run right out the back and you have no exhaust leaks I would check your trunk rubber..The mustangs are bad for sucking in fumes around the trunk lid area..It's probably not coming from the engine compartment..
The Rhoads lifters bleed down at idle and low rpms so that you don't have full lift..This gives the engine better vaccum and low speed characteristics with a very large cam..I don't think they are necessary in your case..Especially if you like the lope sound at idle...My brother had them in his car and replaced them because he did not like the constant ticking sound that these lifters have and much prefered the lope sound...I am not even sure if they are available in a roller lifter?

Dennis Marks

Thanks again for the feedback. Rhoads are made in rollers at a cost of $311 and some change from Summit. They were the least expensive out of the 3 I checked by a few dollars. But hey, I am all for saving money, especially if I am going to loose my "symphony". About the smell, I finally got so pissed at the trunk rubber I took it out because I bought 3, but everyone made my trunk raise about 1/2" above where it was supposed to be. Of course the inside of my trunk now looks like crap where the glue was. The last one I took out is still in good shape and I can re-install it. Do I need to just cut some of it off. I hate the trumk lid sticking up. I am probably being ****, but that's me. All came from NPD. Do I need to try another source? That is probably the problem. With all the power you are making, what all have you done to the frame? Much appreciated.

Dennis Marks

Did you get my PM about your seats?

eZ

Yes PMed you back. If your exhaust exits out the back make sure your trunk lid has a good seal. Also when you dynomat the trunk floor should help. I think your biggest problems would come from not having good weatherstripping for the lid. Also make sure the car is not running rich.

Dennis Marks

Thanks. Got your pm