What's different about these brake pedals?
I'm swapping over to a different pedal assembly with a t5 swap and I noticed that the brake on the one I'm installing will pull away from the firewall further than the original unit.
It looks like the brake lever stop is different and I am concerned that the brake pushrod could fall out of the master cylinder after my disk brake swap.
Should I modify the stop on the replacement unit?
It looks like the brake lever stop is different and I am concerned that the brake pushrod could fall out of the master cylinder after my disk brake swap.
Should I modify the stop on the replacement unit?
Well, they are both the same year, I guess it's possible that they came from a 67 with power brakes but I was told they were from a 65/66 when I bought em, power drum brakes in 65? I can't remember when power boosters became available?
My concern is the push rod falling out of the dual bowl mc that I will use in the swap, do those pushrods stay in the mc?
My concern is the push rod falling out of the dual bowl mc that I will use in the swap, do those pushrods stay in the mc?
I'm pretty sure the following link will help you figure it out http://www.mustangsteve.com/fyi_brak...akepedals.html
The one on the left looks like a 67 manual brake pedal and the one on the right looks like the 65/66 power and manual brakes (same pedal)
I wouldn't install the 67 on a 65 because the M/C could get overextended if you happen to catch your shoe beneath the pedal (or something similar happens). The 65 has a bumper that prevents this, and the 67 has a different pedal hanger to account for the different pedal stop lever length.
The one on the left looks like a 67 manual brake pedal and the one on the right looks like the 65/66 power and manual brakes (same pedal)
I wouldn't install the 67 on a 65 because the M/C could get overextended if you happen to catch your shoe beneath the pedal (or something similar happens). The 65 has a bumper that prevents this, and the 67 has a different pedal hanger to account for the different pedal stop lever length.
Well, they are both the same year, I guess it's possible that they came from a 67 with power brakes but I was told they were from a 65/66 when I bought em, power drum brakes in 65? I can't remember when power boosters became available?
My concern is the push rod falling out of the dual bowl mc that I will use in the swap, do those pushrods stay in the mc?
My concern is the push rod falling out of the dual bowl mc that I will use in the swap, do those pushrods stay in the mc?
22, do you think its a late 65 or a 66? The carrier is identical to my 65 (the one on the right, it is my existing setup).
I wonder how trustworthy that clip is in reality? If it fails the pedal on the left could get you killed?
I am taking it apart for a bearing kit on the clutch anyway, so I guess ill just use the pedal with the stop from my existing unit and cut down the foot pad.
I wonder how trustworthy that clip is in reality? If it fails the pedal on the left could get you killed?
I am taking it apart for a bearing kit on the clutch anyway, so I guess ill just use the pedal with the stop from my existing unit and cut down the foot pad.
I'm swapping over to a different pedal assembly with a t5 swap and I noticed that the brake on the one I'm installing will pull away from the firewall further than the original unit.
It looks like the brake lever stop is different and I am concerned that the brake pushrod could fall out of the master cylinder after my disk brake swap.
Should I modify the stop on the replacement unit?

It looks like the brake lever stop is different and I am concerned that the brake pushrod could fall out of the master cylinder after my disk brake swap.
Should I modify the stop on the replacement unit?

Both are NON Power pedals, For Non Power setups.. No Booster fits these pedals--Factory anyway. A Bunch of Force fit will.
Power Disc require a different pedal with greater leverage.
The Clip thing, Yes. If you have Manual brakes, the master will have a recessed/machined area in the every bottom of the piston. The push rod clip ring flips out into this area, making the push rod fixed in the master.
If no machined area, Not a correct master for push rod application---Yes a wreck about to happen.
Dan @ Chockostang
Typically, a small sledgehammer is required to get the shaft out of the cylinder. I don't worry about it falling out, I worry about getting it out. From 66 on, that was all Ford used to keep then together.


