Horn problems
04-03-2011, 03:17 AM
#13
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Cork, Ireland
Posts: 6,417
well grant steering wheels are notorious for horn problems, so I never bought one although I like the way they look. i'm still with stock. anyway if there's only one wire then this wire is ground and whenever you touch that to ground it should beep. You can try that with touching the wire on the steering wheel nut (the one that holds the wheel in place). It should beep as soon as you touch. if that works then the problem is the horn button itself. it has to be mounted in such a way that it only connects to ground when you press the button
04-03-2011, 09:21 AM
#14
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: AR
Posts: 5,469
I think that Mustang used a POSITIVE signal to actuate the horn relay, (Right?) GRANT uses the "GM" system where the horn button works the relay by going to ground when the button is pushed. The systems are uncompilable without rewiring the car. (you can't practically change the horn button). This can be accomplished by using a common parts store relay to modify the horn circuit, it is an easy fix if you have a basic understanding of electric circuits.
The way things are now, the horn button is causing a dead short.
The way things are now, the horn button is causing a dead short.
04-03-2011, 10:29 AM
#15
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: NC
Posts: 341
I think that Mustang used a POSITIVE signal to actuate the horn relay, (Right?) GRANT uses the "GM" system where the horn button works the relay by going to ground when the button is pushed. The systems are uncompilable without rewiring the car. (you can't practically change the horn button). This can be accomplished by using a common parts store relay to modify the horn circuit, it is an easy fix if you have a basic understanding of electric circuits.
The way things are now, the horn button is causing a dead short.
The way things are now, the horn button is causing a dead short.
04-03-2011, 10:32 AM
#16
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: NC
Posts: 341
well grant steering wheels are notorious for horn problems, so I never bought one although I like the way they look. i'm still with stock. anyway if there's only one wire then this wire is ground and whenever you touch that to ground it should beep. You can try that with touching the wire on the steering wheel nut (the one that holds the wheel in place). It should beep as soon as you touch. if that works then the problem is the horn button itself. it has to be mounted in such a way that it only connects to ground when you press the button
04-04-2011, 05:48 AM
#17
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Cork, Ireland
Posts: 6,417
before you try that, check if the wire is actually 'HOT' like JMD says. if it has, then don't connect to ground (steering wheel).
the 19641/2 had a horn relay and the 1965 didn't. So it's all different
the 19641/2 had a horn relay and the 1965 didn't. So it's all different
04-04-2011, 07:39 AM
#18
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: NC
Posts: 341
Thanks much. Now that I know there might be a wheel problem, who makes a good replacement? I haven't gone 200 miles since I installed this one and sure don't want to throw another couple hundred down the pit.
04-04-2011, 07:58 AM
#19
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: NC
Posts: 341
I know it's hot because every time it hits something, sparks fly. Will the after market relay still work or do I just need to get a new wheel and be done with it? If so, any suggestions? Thanks.
04-04-2011, 09:46 AM
#20
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Cork, Ireland
Posts: 6,417
so there's something I don't get.
a) the 1964 1/2 has a hornrelay and the 1965 does not. Ok so far. on 19641/2 that wire is single and ground switched
b) you say you ahev a 1965 and the wire is hot. However you say there's only one single wire. However the originaol wiring diagram fior 1965 says
there are two wires. One of them giving constant or ignition 12V+ (yellow)
and the other is green-yellow that goes directly to the horns.
So from all this.
a) where is your 2nd wire?
b) which one do you have? yellow or green yellow?
- if you have green/yellow then I could find a way to do it with a relay (like JMD suggests). but this wire should _NOT_ be hot since it's connected to the horns
- if you only have a yellow cable, the yes this is hot, but where the hell is green/yellow then?
even if we switched it properly at the horn, we need to tell the horns somehow.
Can you do another check there? there should be yellow and yellow/green? any chance anyone with a 1965 could confirm that quickly?
i have a 1964, which is wired totally different at horn (Ford started saving money in 1965 or just went stupid)
kalli
a) the 1964 1/2 has a hornrelay and the 1965 does not. Ok so far. on 19641/2 that wire is single and ground switched
b) you say you ahev a 1965 and the wire is hot. However you say there's only one single wire. However the originaol wiring diagram fior 1965 says
there are two wires. One of them giving constant or ignition 12V+ (yellow)
and the other is green-yellow that goes directly to the horns.
So from all this.
a) where is your 2nd wire?
b) which one do you have? yellow or green yellow?
- if you have green/yellow then I could find a way to do it with a relay (like JMD suggests). but this wire should _NOT_ be hot since it's connected to the horns
- if you only have a yellow cable, the yes this is hot, but where the hell is green/yellow then?
even if we switched it properly at the horn, we need to tell the horns somehow.
Can you do another check there? there should be yellow and yellow/green? any chance anyone with a 1965 could confirm that quickly?
i have a 1964, which is wired totally different at horn (Ford started saving money in 1965 or just went stupid)
kalli