Just finished the t5 install on my mustang, the clutch pedal seems to be sitting a lot closer to the drivers seat then the brake pedal. I used the cable clutch and screwed a lot into the top of the pedal. Would loosening some of that and screwing it into the clutch fork move the pedal down a little. I was assuming that the pedals would both be even. Thanks.

 

This is probably something you want to address, if the throwout bearing is getting pushed too far into the clutch disk damage will likely result.

When we put the Mustang Steve clutch setup on Jim's 66 the pedal set nicely even with the brake pedal. I think you need to do some fine tuning/adjustment. Whether at the top of the cable or the bottom will depend on where proper cable travel (into and out of the sheath, etc.) can be accommodated.

 

The clutch seems to work fine, it doesn't fully engage till about an inch from the floor. It releases at the same point.

 

Sounds low to me.

 

Something sounds just wrong to me, you have a giant *** high pedal and the clutch disengages/engages an inch from the floor makes me think something is wrong with your leverage. Did you use the right hole in the throwout arm, and/or the right throwout arm?

 

I have the proper clutch fork for my bellhousing. I have it now so the clutch pedal sits flush with the brake pedal, but I can pull it forward by hand. How can you tell when you have to clutch fork tight enough? Should you be able to move the fork with the clutch disengaged? Also, is it possible to install the throwout bearing backwards?? Thanks.

 

If you have the throwout bearing in backward it will make a hell of a noise (might be possible to do), but I doubt you have it backward.

You want to have about an inch of "free travel" at the top of the pedal stroke. (the first inch or so is supposed to be "easy" then the throwout bearing begins to contact the diaphragm and it gets harder to push.

Effectively it doesn't really matter whether this adjustment is made at the top of the cable or the bottom of the cable, so long as travel is not impeded by running out of room at the cable sheath, (where the cable end might encounter the sheath)

With the pedal up, the fork should not be "tight" (in a relative sense).

 

That is how mine is right now, so I will leave it for now. Another question, what gears are you guys running after the t5 swap. I am planning on 3.80 with a traction lock. Running a 245\65 R14 tire. Think my overdrive is .63. Right now its revving at 1400-1500 at 65mph (2.79 currently). What should I expect with 3.80 or 4.10. Thanks.

 

2100-2200

4.10 / 2.79 = 147%

147% * 1450 RPM = 2131 RPM

Consider that going TOO LOW with your final gears may make first gear essentially worthless.... These o/d trannys were set up for stock cars to turn slow at highway speeds, therefore they have a pretty damn low first gear already.

In my experience anything much lower than 3,55 gears effectively makes your 5 speed o/d transmission into a 4 speed overdrive plus a "granny low", which is only really useful for pulling a trailer or pulling stumps...

 

FYI, the factory pedals had the clutch higher than the brake pedal. That is normal. Engaging/disengaging an inch from the floor is an issue though, and sounds like too much clearance between the throwout bearing and pressure plate or misadjusted cable.