built67

so im building up my 9" rear, and i was wondering. wen i put the newly built 3rd member back in and i go to bolt it to the housing, are there any torque requirements for tightening that? also, went i put the axles back in do i have to torque those down as well? when i disassembled it, i removed ten brass washers but they got bent up, can i replace them with regular washers or do i need those specific brass ones? lastly, whats the easiest way to get an old seal out? Thanks guys

2+2GT

They're not brass, they're soft copper, and they absolutely must be replaced, because they are the housing seals.

There's a tool that looks like a claw hammer that does a pretty good job. Of course, there's always a claw hammer…

built67

they're housing seals? when i took them off they just looked like washers that one would use when bolting on the third member. They went on the studs of the housing before i would put the nuts on to tighten it. where should i look to buy these...summit?

built67

and to remove the old seals, do you think i should just use a flat head and a hammer? and just get a seal driver to put the new seals back in? this is my first time building a rear haha so im kinda new at this.

Jonk67

Here's what a seal puller looks like, usually <$10 at any parts store made by Lisle, etc. When you need it, you NEED it so it's handy to have.


To remove the gasket material get a gasket scraper in the same tool area, it'll also come in handy numberous times. I bought a reusable gasket for my 9", have to look up where I found it but I'm betting Summit. Agree on the copper washers, get the right stuff or it'll leak, they're soft so they seal (only once) where normal washers won't and leak. Don't forget the Ford friction modifier if it's a tracloc.


The axles just snap in when you reinstall them, be very careful not to knick the new seals when you slide them in. Once in you can give them a tap from the end with a block of 2X4 and a mallet, you'll hear them snap in and seat. I hope you had new bearings pressed on while the axles were out. There are also gaskets that go between the seal retainer/flange and brake backing plate/retainer.


I'll have to look up the torque settings for the axles and 3rd member nuts or you can search the web for them. Do you have a shop manual for your year car? They're usually <$50 from any mustang supplier and worth their wt. in gold for info, don't waste your money on Chiltons, etc.

Torquing the axles, rotate the hole in the hub to line up with the nuts:


Jon

2+2GT

^^^^ What he said.

built67

thanks jon...yes the new bearings are pressed on...i had currie make me a set of 31 spline axles. the only thing i noticed is i dont have a hole in my axle to line up with the hub with the nuts so i guess i would have to use an open end wrench? im going to call summit to see if they have those copper washers...i don't know where else i would get them. also those two felpro gaskets in the picture you posted there is a blue gasket and a black gasket, where does each of those go? thanks for your help man, i appreciate it

built67

and it is a ford racing trak-lok...i NEED that friction modifier?

built67

jon, i just referred to some of my pics i took b4 the tear down and i get what u mean by the gaskets...still unsure on how id torque my axles with no hole in the hub.

built67

well i just ordered my 4 gaskets, friction modifier, seal puller and gasket scraper from summit...but when i asked about the crush washers they said they didnt stock them and the arp set comes with hard washers and i can use some RTV sealant instead. I'm not sure what to do...maybe ill take some of the old crush washers i still have and ill take them to an auto store because idk where i'd get them.