Classic Mustangs (Tech) Technical discussions about the Mustangs of yester-year.

turn signal problem

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Old May 30, 2011 | 09:10 AM
  #11  
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Do the emer flashers even go through the column on a 66? I know they didn't on jim's 66 or Mitch's 64 Falcon.

The t/s switch connections on the Falcon and the 66 were all bullet connections, it would be real easy for one of these to become separated.

Two words...... TEST LIGHT

Last edited by JMD; May 30, 2011 at 09:14 AM.
Old May 30, 2011 | 11:47 AM
  #12  
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The very early cars had the bullett connectors. The later cars had a common shared connector. I would check for voltage in and out of the connecter but it sounds like it will need a switch.
Old May 30, 2011 | 12:12 PM
  #13  
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Sorry JMD I should have specified, it's a '70. I do have a test light so I will try Kalli's suggestion today. So I should be getting a signal at the orange/yellow wire at the flasher even if the switch isn't working? It seems like it should go to the switch first and then to the flasher.
Old May 30, 2011 | 01:49 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by Houndstooth
Sorry JMD I should have specified, it's a '70. I do have a test light so I will try Kalli's suggestion today. So I should be getting a signal at the orange/yellow wire at the flasher even if the switch isn't working? It seems like it should go to the switch first and then to the flasher.

Actually (assuming ford is the same as GM, I am 99% on this ) it will go to the flasher first, and then into the column. You should be able to test for power at one side of the flasher with the key on and the turn signal switch in the off position. If you have power at the flasher, you can apply an artificial load at the other flasher terminal to test the flasher itself (with the power hooked up to it and the key on). (A test light won't draw enough current to make the flasher work). I have soldered some leads to a tail light bulb for creating the needed load to cycle the flasher for my own troubleshooting of these circuits.
Old May 30, 2011 | 01:58 PM
  #15  
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well *****. i didn't know the testlight wouldn't draw enough current.
but yes, like JMD says (matches the 1970 wiring diagram) it goes to flasher first, then to column.
So check on: reverse lights and wiper. if they're dead->check fuse.
with a testlight check the orange/yellow on the flasher, should be 12V+. if you have 12V there (testlight lit) and you swapped the flasher with a good known from emergency circuit then the problem is somewhere in the column. switch

but check on the basics first

JMD: my 64 doesn't even have an emergency flasher :-) 65/66 the emergency flasher is seperate (not in column). but in the 1970 it's hooked up at turn signal switch (guessing that the emergency flasher **** is somewhere in the column. never seen one). but completely seperate (including fuse) to indicators

Last edited by kalli; May 30, 2011 at 02:00 PM.
Old May 30, 2011 | 04:05 PM
  #16  
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Well I definitely have 12v at both flashers (I was able to check both terminals on each flasher with the test light, one terminal was just dimmer than the other on each). Looks like I'll have to take the column apart. Oh well, I have a new rear end coming in about a week so I guess I'll pull out the axles and third member now since I can't drive it anyway.
Old May 30, 2011 | 04:35 PM
  #17  
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Ouch, the switches are $100!
Old May 30, 2011 | 08:00 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Houndstooth
Ouch, the switches are $100!

Yea it sucks don't it...

You may be able to repair the switch, NAPA sells a cheesy *** repair kit for 60s and 70s GM switches for about $40.. Don't know for sure about Ford switches, but it may be an option. I was able to make one work for a 68 Cutlass a few weeks ago, should be about as good as new.
Old May 30, 2011 | 09:38 PM
  #19  
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Cheesy *** huh? Thanks for the option but I think I'll go ahead and spend the extra $60, it sounds like it's kind of a pain to change I don't want to do it twice.

Now if you had called it a totally awesome repair kit...
Old May 31, 2011 | 08:51 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Houndstooth
Cheesy *** huh? Thanks for the option but I think I'll go ahead and spend the extra $60, it sounds like it's kind of a pain to change I don't want to do it twice.

Now if you had called it a totally awesome repair kit...
The part that was cheesy is that it only had the cam, no contacts or anything else, but all I needed was the cam so it worked out.

If they wouldn't have called it a "repair kit" and instead called it a "replacement cam" I would have been ok with it, and I would have known what to expect.

The part was cool as a part, but it sucked as a "repair kit".



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