Hey ya all, I figure the old steering box has go to go but I am turned off by the cost of the bolt in kits. Any one know of a bracket or way to use a cheap $250 pinto or Mustang II rack? I am not too concerned on fabricating the rest of the system that is half the fun. Thanks.

 

Why not just replace the box with a new unit from Flaming River? The new quick ratio boxes have better bearings and gears, faster steering ratio, same effort as stock or slightly less.

 

Cheapest way I found to do a decent rack was $775 (shipped) for the Unisteer from summit.

The "What rack to build my own" thread comes around about every two months but not many follow through on it so we dont have much hard data to go on, sorry.

 

Thanks guys just wanted to put my feelers out and see. Looks like I might have some fabricating to do. Of course $775 is pretty good if it comes with tire rods and all that jazz.

 

I built my own using the "J" car rack. My cross member is similar in design to Randalls Rack. It wasn't that difficult. I just need to finish up the inner tie rod setup and adapt a pump. I have around $180 into it right now.

 

tweet66 I guess I am unfamiliar with what a 'J car' is outside of the old 1980's GM fwd cars (am I correct?). Did you weld up your own cross member out of plate steel or use an off the shelf unit? Thanks.

 

Yep that's it. J-car rack and pinion started in 1982.

Cavalier
Beretta
Cimmaron
Skyhawk
Sunbird
Sunfire
J2000
Firenza
Probably a couple more.

I built my own cross memeber out of 1/4" steel plate, using the steering box, idler arm, and cross-member bolt holes. It's a little overkill compared to some on the market but I tend to over-do things anyway (according to the wife)...

 

A brand-new stock box would cost way less than that rack. Then you'd have like-new steering, and enough money left over for several nice dinners out with the wife or sweetheart (but not both).

 

New rack cost me $85 and change at Autozone (daughter works there so I got the discount). Material, nuts, bolts, etc.. for cross member cost another $50. My labor is free (for me anyway...) U-joints came from my old TCP r&p setup, which sucked and was nothing like their latest versions. Extra 24" length of double "D" shaft was another $45. So far it's been cost effective for me...and I like trying to figure out ways to build my own stuff. That's half the fun of these cars for me.

 

The only factory racks that will come close to working have a sucky ratio to them.If you want it to handle better cheapest way is rebuilt steering box.