cylinder head removal
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so i finally got my gasket set today so i started taking my engine apart, i got everthing off upto the intake manifold. now my manual says to remove bolts (forgot the name) and take the pushrods out and keep them in order.

do i take off the 16 nuts (8 on each side) then i will able to pull the pushrods? then i remove the bolts to pull off the heads?
sorry for the noobie questions, im learning!

do i take off the 16 nuts (8 on each side) then i will able to pull the pushrods? then i remove the bolts to pull off the heads?
sorry for the noobie questions, im learning!
They are the sunken nuts in the rockers (part that is sitting on the springs), they 'rock' when the motors running and look like spoons. You should be able to loosen them and turn left or right as mentioned and slip the pushrods out. I would get a box, similar to a shoebox, and punch 16 holes with a round (philips) screwdriver to stand the pushrods up in order. Label the top of the box 1, 2, etc. to 16 to correspond with the order you take them out in, maybe draw the dist. to the front of the box so you remember where you started with 1.
Unless you were able to get one of the low water drain plugs out of the side of the block you will probably have antifreeze spill into the cylinders when the heads come off. Not a big deal if you're doing a total rebuild but if you're just doing head gaskets I'd get a wet shop vac ready to get as much out as you can before it seaps past the rings. You have emptied the oil right?
Once the pushrods are out you can undo the head bolts, I crack them loose in order similar to the install procedure just to avoid any chance of warping the head by unbolting one end first.
Jon
Unless you were able to get one of the low water drain plugs out of the side of the block you will probably have antifreeze spill into the cylinders when the heads come off. Not a big deal if you're doing a total rebuild but if you're just doing head gaskets I'd get a wet shop vac ready to get as much out as you can before it seaps past the rings. You have emptied the oil right?
Once the pushrods are out you can undo the head bolts, I crack them loose in order similar to the install procedure just to avoid any chance of warping the head by unbolting one end first.
Jon
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i emptied all the antifreeze, and had the engine upside down at one point so barely any came out when removing the heads, i labeled each push rod starting from 1 front right and going to 16 left back. got one head off pretty easily, when removing the other head one of the bolts broke, middle top one. i was able to remove the head since it broke about the thread. so now i need to get about an inch of bolt out of my block, any suggestions? i will probably drill and use one of those extractors otherwise.
got one head port matched so far, not the cleanest work but still a bigger opening then before, i made sure not to make them too big.
head gaskets looked relatively new, i will change them anyway. also removed oil pan and will replace that gasket as well. my pistons and cylinders look good and smooth.
got one head port matched so far, not the cleanest work but still a bigger opening then before, i made sure not to make them too big.
head gaskets looked relatively new, i will change them anyway. also removed oil pan and will replace that gasket as well. my pistons and cylinders look good and smooth.
Head gaskets are a one time use only. They have a crush ring around the cylinders that once crushed can't be reused so you have to change the head gaskets. Good luck getting that broken head bolt out. Those bolts are extreemly hard and do not like to be drilled.
thats a pita with the bolt. I hope you get it out.
i never had to face that but maybe an option to try with welding a nut on the rest of the stud and try some carefully applied heat ?! get all new gaskets what neds replacing (felpros are great). when you have the bolt out do buy a set of head bolts and intake bolts. bite the bullet and get ARP. it's worth it. so many times I fooled around with crappy bolts that seem to be just about breaking and can't get proper torque
what's your plan with it? just take the thing apart, port and back together or anything else?
your engine looks like it needs to go to the toilet. you can use tape to block those intake ports :-)
i never had to face that but maybe an option to try with welding a nut on the rest of the stud and try some carefully applied heat ?! get all new gaskets what neds replacing (felpros are great). when you have the bolt out do buy a set of head bolts and intake bolts. bite the bullet and get ARP. it's worth it. so many times I fooled around with crappy bolts that seem to be just about breaking and can't get proper torque
what's your plan with it? just take the thing apart, port and back together or anything else?
your engine looks like it needs to go to the toilet. you can use tape to block those intake ports :-)
Last edited by kalli; Jul 17, 2011 at 06:04 AM.
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it was leaking oil and a crap load of tranny fluid so im like why not take out the engine and tranny? i would weld the bolt back on but it broke right above the threads so its a bit below the surface of the block. while its out ill fix some rust in the engine bay. once it goes back in ill check timing and compression, shouldve tested this before. got my self a torque wrench, its in in lbs, lame now i have to convert my ft lb setting to in lbs :P


