289 Master engine kit
08-14-2011, 03:22 AM
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: international
Posts: 19
289 Master engine kit
Hello i have a 289 with casting number 0- C5AE-6015E i wish to rebuilt the engine as it was smoking , i have an edelbrock 500cmf carb and performer intake manifold , does anybody know any good master engine kits out there ?? i found this on ebay i dont know if its any good
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/289-3...#ht_3076wt_939
thank you
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/289-3...#ht_3076wt_939
thank you
08-14-2011, 09:03 AM
#2
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Michigan
Posts: 516
What you buy is going to depend on what you find when you tear it apart. How much is the crank worn? Does it just need a quick polish or will it need to be turned down. Has it been turned down before?
What about the rod journals? Have they been turned before? Do they need to be. Are the rods still straight? New pistons is good, but you have to hang them on the rods. I wouldn't put new pistons on old rods without getting the rods resized, new bolts, shot peened, etc...
Does it need a bottom end rebuild or is the smoke coming from a set of worn out valve seals? What are the cylinder bores? Does it need to be bored oversize, or will honing fix the bores up?
I wouldn't start throwing parts at it until I know for sure what's going on. Take it all apart, measure everything take good notes and then decide what parts you need to do it right.
The kit looks like it has good name brand parts. But you may need more than is included. I don't know what an RV cam is unless its the same as the old 'truck' cams. If you want more power, I'd spend a few dollars more and get a good performance cam. You'll be happier in the long run that way.
What about the rod journals? Have they been turned before? Do they need to be. Are the rods still straight? New pistons is good, but you have to hang them on the rods. I wouldn't put new pistons on old rods without getting the rods resized, new bolts, shot peened, etc...
Does it need a bottom end rebuild or is the smoke coming from a set of worn out valve seals? What are the cylinder bores? Does it need to be bored oversize, or will honing fix the bores up?
I wouldn't start throwing parts at it until I know for sure what's going on. Take it all apart, measure everything take good notes and then decide what parts you need to do it right.
The kit looks like it has good name brand parts. But you may need more than is included. I don't know what an RV cam is unless its the same as the old 'truck' cams. If you want more power, I'd spend a few dollars more and get a good performance cam. You'll be happier in the long run that way.
08-14-2011, 10:53 AM
#3
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Nebraska
Posts: 475
It looks like an alright kit. However you should sit down with your machinest and see if it fits your needs. If you have a good machinest available to you he should be able to set you up with what you need.
08-14-2011, 10:55 AM
#4
6th Gear Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: PA
Posts: 5,232
The C5AE-E 289 is by far the most common, whether it's a 289 2V or 289HP. As stated, you can't really order the kit until you know what under/over sizes you need, from a careful teardown. Even then, you have decisions to make, such as 2V/4V kit, which would be identical, except for flat or dish top pistons.
08-15-2011, 01:16 PM
#5
Guest
Posts: n/a
get the crank checked out, once you tore the engine down to the block take the block to a machine shop have then check your cylinder bores, they will also probably soak it in a chemical bath, itll be all shiny and new, have then replace the cam bearings.
looks like the kit comes with freeze plugs and drain plugs. get new head bolts just in case, or better yet buy the ARP stud kit, bolts only last a couple tightenings, eg if the heads have been removed before they might break on retorqueing, studs last forever.
make sure to port match your heads!
looks like the kit comes with freeze plugs and drain plugs. get new head bolts just in case, or better yet buy the ARP stud kit, bolts only last a couple tightenings, eg if the heads have been removed before they might break on retorqueing, studs last forever.
make sure to port match your heads!
08-17-2011, 04:35 PM
#6
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: international
Posts: 19
Hello and thanks for alll the tips the engine is a C code i was wondering if it would be a good idea to put flat top pistons in the engine to increase the compression , do you think it will be ok with the rv tongue cam in the kit?
08-19-2011, 12:34 PM
#8
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Nebraska
Posts: 475
With flat top pistons you can run into piston to valve clearance issues depending on what cam and rocker arm ratio you choose. Flat top are just fine to run as long as you have clearance. You are listed as international so i dont know how big of a pain it would be to order in new parts if they end up being uncompatable. I know for me if i would have a clearance issue i could find the pistons locally or have them in a day or two. A safer bet would be to go with notched pistons.
08-19-2011, 08:15 PM
#9
6th Gear Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: PA
Posts: 5,232
Um, we may be confusing terms here. All A code 289 4V engines, and all 289HP engines, and even the J code 302 and M code 351W had flat top pistons. All other 289, 302, and 351W 2V engines had dish top pistons. ALL of these pistons had eyebrow notches for valve clearance.
Last edited by 2+2GT; 08-19-2011 at 08:17 PM.
08-19-2011, 10:14 PM
#10
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Nebraska
Posts: 475
That is true for what ford put in the classics. However aftermarket there are true flat top pistons available and these can cause piston to valve issues depending on valve train choices. I am just suggesting that he has valve relief notches because he is international and it might be a pain to the budget or time to find replacement pistons.
