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What happened to my PVC vlave?

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Old 09-01-2011, 09:22 PM
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Tilley
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Default What happened to my PVC vlave?

Here is a picture of my old 1965 Mustang WITH a PVC valve:


And here is a picture of my new 1965 Mustang:


Where is the PVC valve, and can it run without one?
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Old 09-01-2011, 11:37 PM
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rmodel65
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yes you can get away without running one that oil cap is a breather for the crankcase...is it an early car(early 64)?? not sure if they came with a pcv valve or not
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Old 09-01-2011, 11:47 PM
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Tilley
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Originally Posted by rmodel65
yes you can get away without running one that oil cap is a breather for the crankcase...is it an early car(early 64)?? not sure if they came with a pcv valve or not
Here are the problems I am having now. Keep in mind I just bought the car yesterday, and today was the first day I had to play around with it:

The timing fluctuates between 12 deg and 16 deg warmed up in drive.

There seems to be a small surging at medium rpm's.

At a stop light I can see some smoke coming from under the hood. When I got home and looked under the hood I could see some oil had came out of the oil cap breather and had smoked up on the manifold.

The biggest problem is:

The car has some issues starting after being driven. It feels as if it's starved for fuel. The battery seems to not crank the car too well, but it is a brand new battery. If I pump the gas, it starts.

Do you think this is a carb problem or due to a lack of PVC valve, or both?

How do I smooth this car out?
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Old 09-01-2011, 11:49 PM
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Tilley
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Originally Posted by rmodel65
...is it an early car(early 64)?? not sure if they came with a pcv valve or not
Made in San Jose on December 22, 1964.
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Old 09-02-2011, 02:23 AM
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kalli
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Originally Posted by Tilley
t's starved for fuel. The battery seems to not crank the car too well, but it is a brand new battery. If I pump the gas, it starts.

Do you think this is a carb problem or due to a lack of PVC valve, or both?

How do I smooth this car out?
i'm wondering why your timing fluctuates. Anyway when it happens after being driven it's either
- timing too far advanced (this would be my first guess from your description, hard starting when hot, gas helps). try retarding by at least two degrees.
- or the carburetor is getting to hot and you might try a phenolic spacer under there. But in this case usually you empty the carb with the heat so nothing really helps (you won't have gas to squirt). You have to turn forever to get gas back in.

from this, retard ignition by lets say 4 degrees. why does it fluctuate? is the rpm going up and down as well?
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Old 09-02-2011, 08:46 AM
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scott_m_mil
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Check the fuel line filter. My car doesn't have one before the pump, I only have the one that threads into the carb. Its the larger style (better).

Scott
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Old 09-02-2011, 10:06 AM
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JMD
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Timing on these early engines is controlled strictly by the "Load-O-Matic" ignition advance. It works via vacuum routed through a special control valve in the carburetor to the "vacuum advance" diaphragm on the distributor.

The diaphragm may be ruptured, the hose line may be leaking, or the contro0l valve in the carburetor may not be working right.

I could see a faulty Load-O-Matic as causing ALL of your issues. (Fluctuation due to uncontrolled timing changes, and hard starting due to a P/O trying to compensate by by setting initial timing too high. IMO check you initial timing with the vac port in the distributor disconnected to see if timing changes stop. this might be a start.

There is a lot on info here.... http://www.fordsix.com/
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Old 09-02-2011, 11:05 AM
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1slow67
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I thought load-o-native didn't start until 68 and years before had spark advance and not vacuum advance.
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Old 09-02-2011, 12:18 PM
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Originally Posted by BA Mustang
I thought load-o-native didn't start until 68 and years before had spark advance and not vacuum advance.
It is my understanding that the Load-o-matic was used through 67, and 68 brought the more standard centrifugal + vac advance.....(on the I-6s anyway)

Problem is that the distributor shaft section beyond the gear that passes into the block is slightly larger on the newer style, so this cant be "retrofitted" without either turning down the shaft or reaming out the block.
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Old 09-02-2011, 01:49 PM
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Tilley
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I am going to check today for vacuum leaks, and retard the timing a bit. I will post pics as well.
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