Floor Pan(s) install
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 21
From: MO
Floor Pan(s) install
Hello all.
I just purchased new full length floor pans and toe boards for both driver and pass. sides of my '68 coupe. The question is this:
While I see the side lips (that woud attach to the rocker) for the full length pans are bent upwards the lips for the toe boards bend down. Why would these not bend up towards the dash so that you can weld them in to the kick panel area?
Also I cut the seat riser out of the pass side and then laid the floor pan into place to get an idea of fit and placement. The fit doesn't seem to be quite right although I think its pretty good. I did notice the holes for the seat mounts and drains are a little off. The drain holes I'm not worried about but could the seat mount holes be an issue?
Where is the best place to make your cuts for the seat belt attachments on the tranny tunnel? Would it be best to leave the original mount in place and notch around the new pan or cut out the original and reattach the hardware for the seatbelts?
As for the pans themselves I would assume the best thing to do is cut as low as possible on the tranny/driveline hump. That way, you get rid of most of the old floor to make room for the new and then you can mark and trim the tunnel for a better fit.
Can anyone offer words of encouragement or advice.
Thanks for all the responses,
Carter
I just purchased new full length floor pans and toe boards for both driver and pass. sides of my '68 coupe. The question is this:
While I see the side lips (that woud attach to the rocker) for the full length pans are bent upwards the lips for the toe boards bend down. Why would these not bend up towards the dash so that you can weld them in to the kick panel area?
Also I cut the seat riser out of the pass side and then laid the floor pan into place to get an idea of fit and placement. The fit doesn't seem to be quite right although I think its pretty good. I did notice the holes for the seat mounts and drains are a little off. The drain holes I'm not worried about but could the seat mount holes be an issue?
Where is the best place to make your cuts for the seat belt attachments on the tranny tunnel? Would it be best to leave the original mount in place and notch around the new pan or cut out the original and reattach the hardware for the seatbelts?
As for the pans themselves I would assume the best thing to do is cut as low as possible on the tranny/driveline hump. That way, you get rid of most of the old floor to make room for the new and then you can mark and trim the tunnel for a better fit.
Can anyone offer words of encouragement or advice.
Thanks for all the responses,
Carter
The damage is worse than it looks here. And it's just like this on the pass. side as well.
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 21
From: MO
Ive got pics of the damage but I haven't uploaded them yet. I'll get to that asap.
The spot on the rear seat extension is identical on the pass. side as well. Once the undercoating was removed on the entire pan I could really see what was wrong. The damage in the rear on both sides can easily be fixed with a 6x6 patch.
The driver side is really good except for the foot board and due to the location the full length is too short to cover the top of the damage and the toe board is too short to cover the bottom. That's the only reason I decided to do the full lengths. The pass. side has less damage on the toe board and easier to fix but, the whole pass. rear foot pad was gone and had been fixed with an aluminum sheet and pop rivets. There wasn't any rust there but I hated the way it looked and knowing it was there makes me want to replace it. Again here, if I'm gonna replace a section I may as well do the full lengths. I'm going to replace the seat risers as well. They look nice and are sturdy but had been cut out for access and patched with panels and pop rivets.
I think the full pan would probably be easier and I love the way they look but, the wife would blow up if I spent $500 instead of the <$200 I have. Noone will ever see the floorboards and its not a concourse car. Id rather save $300 here and put that towards something else you can see like new vent window frames.
The spot on the rear seat extension is identical on the pass. side as well. Once the undercoating was removed on the entire pan I could really see what was wrong. The damage in the rear on both sides can easily be fixed with a 6x6 patch.
The driver side is really good except for the foot board and due to the location the full length is too short to cover the top of the damage and the toe board is too short to cover the bottom. That's the only reason I decided to do the full lengths. The pass. side has less damage on the toe board and easier to fix but, the whole pass. rear foot pad was gone and had been fixed with an aluminum sheet and pop rivets. There wasn't any rust there but I hated the way it looked and knowing it was there makes me want to replace it. Again here, if I'm gonna replace a section I may as well do the full lengths. I'm going to replace the seat risers as well. They look nice and are sturdy but had been cut out for access and patched with panels and pop rivets.
I think the full pan would probably be easier and I love the way they look but, the wife would blow up if I spent $500 instead of the <$200 I have. Noone will ever see the floorboards and its not a concourse car. Id rather save $300 here and put that towards something else you can see like new vent window frames.
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 299
From: Nawlins, LA.
CJ's has a kit with two full length pans, seat riser, toe pans etc for about $300 vs bone basic full single floor for $400 +, then add risers,toe pans etc,over $600,....I'll probably go with the two full pans and original trans tunnel,...my time is free
Last edited by Couper; Sep 23, 2011 at 12:52 PM.
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 21
From: MO
If I could buy the kit for $400 I might do it but, my local part guy doesn't carry the full pan. Shipping prices are ridiculous at $150-200. What was once a good deal turns to absurdity pretty quick.
I'm not really sure where the wheel dollies are from. My dad purchased them a long while ago. When I'm at the shop tomorrow I'll try and remember if the sticker I see in the pick has a brand name. The car rolls easily enough even with the small wheels. They even roll over the lip of the garage floor to the outside drive and back in without too much effort.
I'm not really sure where the wheel dollies are from. My dad purchased them a long while ago. When I'm at the shop tomorrow I'll try and remember if the sticker I see in the pick has a brand name. The car rolls easily enough even with the small wheels. They even roll over the lip of the garage floor to the outside drive and back in without too much effort.
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 21
From: MO
Coupe,
Thanks. I figured as much, it's just a truck freight shipping charge per delivery as well as an additional $20-30 to have it brought to the house. The thing is, I only need the floor fixed. I have a new Ford hood from the local Ford dealer, two door skins (also dealer items) and I only need one fender (which my local guy has). The trunk lid is solid.
The only other parts that I need are things that can be shipped with standard rates or I can get from my local guy.
But again, although the full pan would be nice, this isn't a concours car. For something that is going to be unseen 99% of the time, I would rather use the money elsewhere.
Thanks. I figured as much, it's just a truck freight shipping charge per delivery as well as an additional $20-30 to have it brought to the house. The thing is, I only need the floor fixed. I have a new Ford hood from the local Ford dealer, two door skins (also dealer items) and I only need one fender (which my local guy has). The trunk lid is solid.
The only other parts that I need are things that can be shipped with standard rates or I can get from my local guy.
But again, although the full pan would be nice, this isn't a concours car. For something that is going to be unseen 99% of the time, I would rather use the money elsewhere.