Hood Help
I am not a fan of fiberglass hoods for the most part, I would probably spring for the original tooling if I couldn't find a good OEM hood.
Iwas pretty impressed with the original hood on the 66 when I cut it, it was built out of metal thicker than the frame rails on a lot of late model unibody cars....
Iwas pretty impressed with the original hood on the 66 when I cut it, it was built out of metal thicker than the frame rails on a lot of late model unibody cars....
For the exact reason of this thread. 2 in the front prevents the hood (bonnet) from breaking free of the latch and flying up, bending itself irrepairably. Race cars usually have 4 for a number of reasons: better access with hood off, fiberglass everything, quick hood removal, etc.
Yes, that would be nice and potentially help a brother MFer to avoid the problem. When it happened to me, it was an old Blazer and the interior hood release froze up so that it never fully caught, held until I was going about 60, and then ...
I really do not know for sure but in looking at everything after the fact this is what I feel caused it. I have a Griffin radiator with an auxillary fan on the front. The latch had always worked and I really had not looked at it closely since I put it back on the road because it had never been a problem. The hood latch actually hits the little **** that is on the front of the radiator and does not go back far enough for the safety to actually work. I think I did not have the hood closed all the way even though it felt like it was locked and when it came loose it had nowhere to go but upsince the safety catch did not work. It works now but it is a little too late. Just one of those unfortunate minutes of stupidity and assuming.
Last edited by Dennis Marks; Oct 11, 2011 at 09:56 PM.
I am not a fan of fiberglass hoods for the most part, I would probably spring for the original tooling if I couldn't find a good OEM hood.
Iwas pretty impressed with the original hood on the 66 when I cut it, it was built out of metal thicker than the frame rails on a lot of late model unibody cars....
Iwas pretty impressed with the original hood on the 66 when I cut it, it was built out of metal thicker than the frame rails on a lot of late model unibody cars....
I agree 100% about the structure in the original hood. The one off my parts car was bent also. Looks like the same thing had happened to it at some time which is very scary. I looked at OEM from NPD but really doubt that it is anything like the original. While I was searching I really liked the looks of the 67 Shelby hood so I figured what the heck since I am going to use pins anyway. I looked and read about 20 different ones before deciding on the K.A.R. fiberglass.I might regret it, but I am going to give it a try unless someone knows a better manufacturer or a really good OEM.
You will be happy with the K.A.R. hood. Our local Mustang club has a member that just bought that same hood for his 65 fastback. I could not believe how well it fit. There was very minimal prep work. If you search that hood on ebay, they have a picture of his car in their photo's that show the hood well. I plan to go with one of their hoods on my 65 but am on the waiting list for the new Shelby style (67-68 hood)that is being produced for the 65-66 cars and is close to release.
Yes, those are all my cars listed below the pic. Two of the cars in the pic have been sold but I bought two others to replace them.
As for the hood, K.A.R. has them for the same price on their site. You are looking at the hood and deck lid combo for the $750. You have to keep scrolling down and the hood is listed by itself at the bottom of the page.
On hood pins, I bought a billet set from a seller on ebay for around $40 and couldn't be happier with them. I originally had the Ford Racing ones that sell for around $60 but they scratched easily. The billet ones I got actually have a groove for the hood pin to slide in so you can't scratch them.
As for the hood, K.A.R. has them for the same price on their site. You are looking at the hood and deck lid combo for the $750. You have to keep scrolling down and the hood is listed by itself at the bottom of the page.
On hood pins, I bought a billet set from a seller on ebay for around $40 and couldn't be happier with them. I originally had the Ford Racing ones that sell for around $60 but they scratched easily. The billet ones I got actually have a groove for the hood pin to slide in so you can't scratch them.
Yes, those are all my cars listed below the pic. Two of the cars in the pic have been sold but I bought two others to replace them.
As for the hood, K.A.R. has them for the same price on their site. You are looking at the hood and deck lid combo for the $750. You have to keep scrolling down and the hood is listed by itself at the bottom of the page.
On hood pins, I bought a billet set from a seller on ebay for around $40 and couldn't be happier with them. I originally had the Ford Racing ones that sell for around $60 but they scratched easily. The billet ones I got actually have a groove for the hood pin to slide in so you can't scratch them.
As for the hood, K.A.R. has them for the same price on their site. You are looking at the hood and deck lid combo for the $750. You have to keep scrolling down and the hood is listed by itself at the bottom of the page.
On hood pins, I bought a billet set from a seller on ebay for around $40 and couldn't be happier with them. I originally had the Ford Racing ones that sell for around $60 but they scratched easily. The billet ones I got actually have a groove for the hood pin to slide in so you can't scratch them.


