Hydraulic lifter/non adjust rocker
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 493
From: Ontario
The factory nuts are kinda "pinched" so they thread on tightly and don't turn..Trouble is they get loose after they have been run up and down the stud a few times..You can get new nuts or double them up like you said..Or you can get the posi lock style nuts with the allen screw in the top..
4th Gear Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,483
From: Fontana, California
So I see I have Positive Stop Stud for hydraulic lifters and they can't adjust. So, I see a kit that will have a locking nut which I may do. Good news is that I am not damaging my valves. SO, thoughts?
Positive Stop Stud
This type stud was used on 1969-76 302 and 351W engines, as well as 1968-72 429 engines with hydraulic cams. They do not allow for lifter adjustment and work only with smaller cams when the dimensions of the engine (block, head deck height, etc.) remain close to stock. They also don’t work on solid lifter cams.
Positive Stop Stud
This type stud was used on 1969-76 302 and 351W engines, as well as 1968-72 429 engines with hydraulic cams. They do not allow for lifter adjustment and work only with smaller cams when the dimensions of the engine (block, head deck height, etc.) remain close to stock. They also don’t work on solid lifter cams.
I personally see no issue with using the comp cams spacers/locking nuts to deal with your lash issues in the case that whomever machined your heads has taken a little too much valve stem off. You could also try replacing the pushrods with new ones to see if that helps. If the problem continues you'll need to find out what's going on ( cam lob eroding or the lifter has bleed excessive down)
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