engine and under dash wiring
#1
engine and under dash wiring
So again my new to me 67 has an aftermarket alarm cut into the stock under dash wiring, the ignition switch was missing and most of the heater stuff is missing. Dash lights work and dim, headlights work, NO blinkers and the Brake light stays on. I'm betting there is more I haven't looked for yet.
So my question is, what is the best way for an electrically challenged person tackle this job? I want to start my restore from under the dash. I do not want to buy a new harness unless I absolutely have to. What are the BEST and EASIEST books/plans to read?
Same goes for my engine compartment. some hacked stuff, only one wire on hooked to the alternator, (don't know if its a single wire alt setup), but there are two posts on the back of it...etc, etc.
thanks to anyone who is able to help!
So my question is, what is the best way for an electrically challenged person tackle this job? I want to start my restore from under the dash. I do not want to buy a new harness unless I absolutely have to. What are the BEST and EASIEST books/plans to read?
Same goes for my engine compartment. some hacked stuff, only one wire on hooked to the alternator, (don't know if its a single wire alt setup), but there are two posts on the back of it...etc, etc.
thanks to anyone who is able to help!
#2
Here is the entire wring diagram for the car. PRINT IT AND ALSO DOWNLOAD IT INTO A FILE..
https://www.google.com/search?q=67+m...w=1024&bih=601
just start slow and repair replace as needed. go purchase a variety of connectors and get a soldering iron and some shrink tube.
I redid my 66 and it wasnt that hard. JUst take your time, trace everything and make sure you know where everything goes.
If the brake lights stay on it is either the switch on the pedal assemble, the flasher relay, or the turn signal switch. they may have smashed and grounded a wire in the column when they installed that removable steering wheel.
https://www.google.com/search?q=67+m...w=1024&bih=601
just start slow and repair replace as needed. go purchase a variety of connectors and get a soldering iron and some shrink tube.
I redid my 66 and it wasnt that hard. JUst take your time, trace everything and make sure you know where everything goes.
If the brake lights stay on it is either the switch on the pedal assemble, the flasher relay, or the turn signal switch. they may have smashed and grounded a wire in the column when they installed that removable steering wheel.
#3
Here is the entire wring diagram for the car. PRINT IT AND ALSO DOWNLOAD IT INTO A FILE..
https://www.google.com/search?q=67+m...w=1024&bih=601
just start slow and repair replace as needed. go purchase a variety of connectors and get a soldering iron and some shrink tube.
I redid my 66 and it wasnt that hard. JUst take your time, trace everything and make sure you know where everything goes.
If the brake lights stay on it is either the switch on the pedal assemble, the flasher relay, or the turn signal switch. they may have smashed and grounded a wire in the column when they installed that removable steering wheel.
https://www.google.com/search?q=67+m...w=1024&bih=601
just start slow and repair replace as needed. go purchase a variety of connectors and get a soldering iron and some shrink tube.
I redid my 66 and it wasnt that hard. JUst take your time, trace everything and make sure you know where everything goes.
If the brake lights stay on it is either the switch on the pedal assemble, the flasher relay, or the turn signal switch. they may have smashed and grounded a wire in the column when they installed that removable steering wheel.
#4
Is there something supposed to be attached to the post that come out of the ignition assembly?
I know it is for accessory ON power, but not sure after the plug if anything else goes to it.
I know it is for accessory ON power, but not sure after the plug if anything else goes to it.
#5
Another thought that I had considered a while back... I found a few used harnesses on ebay... they said that they were taken out of wrecked or restored cars. No cuts/splices etc. Just old. For about $25 it seemed like a pretty good deal. If it works better than the hacked one you have, it may be a lot easier to replace the whole thing. Plug and play.
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