DejanM31

Situation:
I have a stock Mustang 65, 289 V8, manual steering, manual 3 speed gearbox here in Europe. Everything is replaced or in good shape, but handling is still very bad.

In terms of speed, i'm not getting much out of it. Around 60 mph, but it is already screaming and the car is shaking a lot. It really feels unsafe. I'm replacing old carb with Carter 500cfm and electric choke and i will try to find what is shaking car so much.

I'm running it on 17" 225/45 tyres, but handling (we have corners in our country is bad like i said before. Steering is very inacurate and the car sometimes wants to go to different direction than me. You just don't fell the tyres or the road. It is like a big ship on the sea (with bad weather).

What is the next step in terms of improved handling? Power steering? Suspension and handling kits, that are outhere? Monte carlo bar? ...?

Which upgrade can really make a difference and isn't very expensive? Remember, i'm from Europe and shipping costs for bigger items are huge.

stephen.osborne1

I would recommend a monte carlo bar, maybe a bigger (thicker) sway bar and bump steer kit. Also, how old are your shocks? There are literally dozens of suspension upgrades or replacements online from several vendors. It all depends on how you intend to drive your car, how original you want to keep it and how much you have to spend.
I would think that your 3 speed trans might be one of the problems, leading to your engine screaming at 60 MPH. Do you know what gear ratio your rear end has?

Starfury

The 3sp transmission isn't going to affect engine rpm at freeway speed. 3rd gear is still 1:1, just like 4th gear in a 4sp, or 3rd in an automatic.

Sounds like you may have multiple issues here:
1) Tire balance. A shake at 60mph is most often a tire balance issue, and getting the tires balanced is cheap and easy.
2) Steering linkage. If everything's in good working order, you'll get great road feedback with a manual steering setup, especially with those big tires you're running. It sounds like something's sloppy. Have a shop put the car in the air and shake down the steering/suspension to see if anything's loose.
3) Alignment. Proper alignment is key, and is also somewhat of a lost art on the '65-66 models. In addition, modern radial tires require different alignment settings than recommended in '65.

As far as modifications, here's what I'd recommend, in order of importance:
1) Shelby/Arning upper control arm relocation. The single cheapest and most effective modification you can do.
2) 7/8" to 1" front sway bar. Don't mess with a rear bar until down the road when you can afford to tune out oversteer issues.
3) Quality modern shocks; KYB's if you're on a budget, Edelbrocks or even Bilsteins if you can afford them
4) New springs all the way around. Lowering the car ~1" and increasing spring stiffness a bit will help control body roll.
5) Roller spring perches. Not needed, but they really help smooth out the ride and keep the tires planted on the ground.
6) Steering update. You can either switch to a tighter ratio steering gearbox for improved response (at the cost of increased steering effort), or swap to a power rack system for even better response (at the cost of turning radius).

hotrod351

jack the front end up, both sides, then check to see what you find loose.

andrewmp6

The best reading you can do is http://home.bresnan.net/~dazed/suspension101 The only time power steering helps is low speed and parking it.

Starfury

Bad ball joints and control arm bushings are harder to trace down if you're unfamiliar with how to check them. It's also much easier to check them on a rack. Many shops (at least here in CA) will even do steering/suspension checks for free in the hope that they find something and you'll let them fix it.

2+2GT

I have a stock Mustang 65, 289 V8, manual steering, manual 3 speed gearbox here in Europe. Everything is replaced or in good shape, but handling is still very bad.
These cars were OK in their day stone-stock, but by today's standards, pretty poor, unless modified.

In terms of speed, i'm not getting much out of it. Around 60 mph, but it is already screaming and the car is shaking a lot. It really feels unsafe.
Screaming? Mine is a 289 High Performance with wide-ratio 4-speed and 3.00:1 rear axle, and it's just loafing at 60. What axle ratio do you have? As for the shaking, the wheel alignment is suspect. Perhaps wheel balance, too. Then there's always the driveshaft…

I'm replacing old carb with Carter 500cfm and electric choke and i will try to find what is shaking car so much.
The Carter is a good choice, but what do you have now?

I'm running it on 17" 225/45 tyres, but handling (we have corners in our country is bad like i said before.
I'll put the back roads of Pennsylvania up against your roads.

Steering is very inacurate and the car sometimes wants to go to different direction than me. You just don't fell the tyres or the road. It is like a big ship on the sea (with bad weather).
OK. More than likely your car has the standard suspension. This means soft springs, dinky sway bar, and 5-turn steering box. Even in 1965, it was known how to cure that. GT springs, stiffer dampers, 1" front sway bar. And better wheel alignment. Consider upgrading to the 4-turn steering box, too.

What is the next step in terms of improved handling? Power steering?
Won't help at all. Power steering has such high boost in these cars that it'll make that floaty feeling worse.

Suspension and handling kits, that are outhere? Monte carlo bar? ...?
As above, stiffer GT springs, dampers, and sway bar don't need to be somebody's "kit". Monte Carlo bar and export brace (the good one, not the cheaper replicas) are mandatory.

Which upgrade can really make a difference and isn't very expensive? Remember, i'm from Europe and shipping costs for bigger items are huge.

I deal with Glazier/Nolan, and they send stuff to Europe all the time, they know the ropes to keep shipping cost down.

Do this stuff, and you won't believe its the same car:

• Wheel alignment
• Relocate the upper control arms. If you don't do this, you're wasting your time on everything else. It also costs NOTHING, since you are getting a wheel alignment anyway. Arning/Shelby Suspension Drop
• GT front and rear springs
• 1" front sway bar
• Upgrade dampers, such as Kyaba KYB Gas-A-Just
• 4-turn steering box
• Export brace
• Monte Carlo bar

• With your manual-trans car, you should consider Traction Master bars (not the cheaper fakes) to control "hopping" of the rear wheels under hard acceleration

DejanM31

How can i find out axle ratio? Because i have a 3 speed gearbox, i thought it is normal, that the car screams at 50 to 60mph and can't go more, but i guess it is not and i have wrong axle ratio?

DejanM31

I have decoded VIN numbers and my 65 Mustang was bought with 3 speed manual and V6 engine. Someone later swaped the engine with 289 V8 (200HP), but i think tranny is still the same, i'm not sure. Which means i have a gear ratio 3:20:1 (via VIN number) and 289 V8 engine. Is this a problem, that my car screams at 50mph and can't go faster? How can i check which gear ratio i really have and how can i fix this?

Gun Jam

3:20 is kinda high for 1:1 but at 50 you should be turning 2100 rpm if in final gear (3rd) the engine would probably be at the bottom of its power range and at perfect RMP for cruise if not a bit under revved. It would probably momentary bog down under WOT because its below its power range. If you accelerated to 60mph that would put you at 2600 rpm and you would probably get better throttle response for passing at that speed in 3rd gear. If I need to pass someone quickly Ill find a gear that gets me close to 3000 RPM and then nail it. In your case you could go 70mph @ 3000 rpm. which really isn't that terrible I used to freeway drive at that rpm for hours the engine ran awesome granted its a lot nicer with my 5speed at 2200 rpm on the freeway.

So

you've either calculated the wrong axle ratio or you think RPM is a lot higher than it really is for some reason.

ALL number given assume 25" tall rear tire.

-Gun