zmetalmilitia

I did my the same way as pale rider. Didn't weld the under side, but I did seam seal both sides, that ensures water will stay out. Sheet metal holds the pieces together while you weld, then weld up the hole when you take the screw out. Works well.

dmaclaren

Guys, thanks for all the help, I appreciate it.

zmetalmilitia, I may only do the top metal of the Torque box, I got the Dynacorn one and the bottom is in great shape and i really am new to all this and don't think I can take ti apart without messing up more and going deeper into trouble.

With that, I have the same spacing issue that you have here in the pick below. How did you fix this?
I was thinking that in my case, I need to cut, with cutoff disk on grinder, about 2 - 3" each side and bend it up so I can get to the spot/plug welds of the box. Then bend them back down and those cuts will then be butt welds, right? What do you think?

I am not sure of my abilities and I may cut just before the spot/plug welds and butt weld in the top of the torque there as I am not sure I can get the drill in there.
Anyway, I know I have ordered a tow board but I want this area nice and clean looking from the outside in the wheel well, which I believve it should be as I don't want it looking fu bar. I am going to fatmat the inside so it doesn't matter about how it looks on the inside.

zmetalmilitia

I think when I put the toeboard in, that filled in the gap. Do you have this gap now, before doing any work on the car? That pic may be a bit deceiving as I don't really remember there being an issue with a gap. I worked on this area 4 years ago, my memory is a bit fuzzy remembering exactly what I did here. I do remember having to make the new metal fit, it wasn't a plug and play fit by any means. I know I didn't cut the torque box. Without pics of your job, it is kinda hard to see what is going on there.

It is scary to be cutting big pieces of metal off your car. It may be easier to remove the entire torque box and install the new one you have vs. removing a side of it and cutting up your new one. That's your call but I would opt to remove the whole thing. Most of the time you remove metal, at least in my experiences, it is hard not to damage it or destroy it through frustration. Sometimes, those pieces don't want to let loose. Maybe I should have been more patient.......

I fat-matted my interior too. Once you seam seal, paint any exposed metal, and fat mat, install carpet, no one will ever see the floor pans.

palerider

+1 on removing the whole torque box - gap will work out when you draw your toeboard to the torque box and plug weld it. To remove torque box there are some spot welds wehre it meets the front frame rails in innder fender area, on the flange of the outer rocker - you can see those areas in the pic I attached. Then underneath where it connect to frame rail underneath the floor. As Zmetal mentioned its a little nervous cutting out major pieces. But if take roloc or sander accros the areas where plug weld are to be removed you can see or feel where the originals ones are. I just redid mine on my 66 vert and was not to bad at all. Never done them before either.