I just had my windsor rebuilt, and I really am dying to put some new exhaust on my car. I know I want dynomax or summit turbo mufflers, 2.5" pipes, x-pipe, and manual cutouts for track days. I want headers, but more importantly I want headers that will fit nicely, not leak, and not need to be dinged upon installation. I would like ceramic coated, but don't need it, and I have no preference between long or short style. The main concern here is simplicity, fit, and low cost. Does anyone have any specific suggestions here?
My motor is stock so I really don't need anything too extreme. Also, in what price range should I expect a shop to charge to weld all this up? I was thinking it would be in the neighborhood of a grand give or take a few hundred (I'm located in Santa Cruz). I didn't find an existing exhaust kit that fits what I want.
One last question, is it possible to have the exhaust exit towards in the middle of the car? What I mean is, underneath the rear valence but in the center of the car as opposed to the sides like most cars have. I see this look on a few modern performance cars, but they usually have IRS. I was thinking as long as the tubes go over the rear axle, THEN go towards the center it would clear the suspension, and work? I don't know if I am not realizing something I should be.
I am really concerned with how often I read about header issues, so please help me out on this one guys! Thanks

 

Oh and I have manual brakes and a FMX. I know the gas tank is probably the reason the center exit exhaust would look jenky.

 

Well you've probably heard this a thousand times: anything can be done with enough money. That said i saw an episode of American Chopper where they ran exhaust through a gas tank (P-51 bike). You could give it a go if you were feeling brave, run a large pipe through the middle of the tank then the exhaust through said pipe.
However you solve the problem, i'd love to see the results

-kirk

 

I went with those cheap stainless tri-Y headers from Ebay and could not be happier!

YMMV.

 

Here is my opinion, headers on a stock engine is a waste of money. They raise the underhood temp, they are difficult to keep from leaking and they hang too low for speed bumps. The manual cutouts are junk and another waste of money. They leak and the flapper rattles like mad. If you put them on your car they won't be on there long because you won't like them.

The exhaust has to exit anywhere behind the rear most window on the car that will open. Anywhere behind the rear axle is fine. You can even go in front of the rear tires but to do that you have to run glass pack style mufflers or a muffler with the inlet and outlet on the same end of the muffler so the exhaust has to make a U-turn, not good. A good shop that can custom build you a system with 2 1/4 inch pipe, with your choice of mufflers, exiting under the rear valance is your best bet.

 

@67: I don't see why keeping a good, rattle proof seal on cutouts would be a problem. I know they would get hot and that exhaust vibrates, but how could there not be a set of cutouts out there that seal well? I just can't visualize how 3 tightened bolts/wingnuts would allow a small piece of metal to vibrate significantly. The thing about speed bumps is why I am leaning towards shorty style headers, but there aren't a lot of inexpensive options out there.
@kirklandkie: I was thinking of having them go underneath the gas tank not through the tank. I am unsure if the tailpipes would get hot enough to cause problems if they were underneath the gas tank. So basically, the length of pipes going over the rear axle would essentially be the same, but instead of shooting towards the sides of the rear valence the pipes would come together in the center of the rear valence.
@Coupe: could you tell me which seller or item you bought?

To anyone: Is it normal for there to be problems with speed bumps etc with long tubes? When I look under the car I can't help but think there must be headers out there that wouldn't affect the ground clearance too much. Now I am leaning towards leaving the manifolds on and just doing exhaust from there back. How much does it normally run to have an exhaust shop weld up a mandrel 2.5" system if you bring the mufflers to them? I would like to hear more feedback on manual cutouts too.

 

Check out a set of FPAs, you will not have any clearance problems.

 

i went with the tri-y like shelby had on the GT350's if used em they must of been good enough

 

Yup, I have no issues with them hanging down, and with the shelby style exhaust I have about $320 total in my system.




Side view.



Of course I am running a T5, but I cant see Tri-Y headers not working with an auto?

 

^^^^^ yup were running similar set up i got my exhaust kit from tony branda and its awesome love the muscle car sound i went with the 2" kit