MonsterBilly

When I built the car I replaced all the power steering components. It is leaking bad now and there is a ton of play in the wheel the play is coming from the power valve not the steering box. at least 1/8th of a turn. I also have a lot of bump steer. I do have the shelby drop on it as well as a proper alignment not so long ago. However it is getting progressively harder to keep going straight on the crappy roads by my house.

So I have been thinking about one of two options. Either elimination the power steering, or rebuilding it all again.


If I go to manual, can someone please post the parts I will need. I talked to CJ Pony Parts and I am more confused than ever. The dude said that i need to get the manual steering kit which replaces the drag link, pitman arm, tie rods, and pretty much everything. Price was about $440.
On here I gather that i should only have to replace the drag link and one tie rod end. https://mustangforums.com/forum/images/icons/icon5.gif

If i rebuild the power valve and rebuild the leaky pump im not sure the play will be gone. Im okay with a little play but it is pretty bad right now. I was also thinking about getting rid of the crappy *** grant steering wheel and going with a new style that is 14" instead of the 15"

I am pulling the engine out to install my new heads and put a new tailshaft bushing on the t5 so I want to do the steering at the same time.

MonsterBilly

I am now just thinking about going with the unisteer kit.

Are there any negatives to the unisteer kit. Im thinking about the manual R&P

OCHOHILL

I have a Unisteer manual rack. If I recall correctly the wheel spun 4.25 turns lock to lock and would guess the ratio is somewhere between power and manual. The turning radius is bigger. You will not be whipping into any tight parking spots. Mine was hard to steer with 235's on it. Otherwise I like it.

On another note. I have a stock manual box in my 66 and 235's. The box is original but came from a 35ishK mile car. So, it's like new. I filled it with new grease and rebuilt the suspension. It drives real nice but would need a steering ball for autocross.

Also note that I use the original steering wheel. A smaller steering wheel requires power regardless of rack or box--my opinion.

MonsterBilly

well i am currently using the 15 in grant crappy *** wheel. i was wanting to go with a little smaller wheel like a 14" billet wheel but it looks like i will need to go power.

this is frustrating.

Gun Jam

you could get the flaming river steer box and a small conversion kit that changes the drag link from PS to MS (this is what I did) and go about your business assuming nothing else is wrong.

Or even better get the flaming river box and a manual drag link and I think you'll need manual tie rod ends to fit the new manual drag link and go about your business.

-Gun

rmodel65

if you go manual steering on a p/s car all you need is a manual drag link and the left hand tie rods iirc....

how are your lower control arm bushings?

MonsterBilly

Lower control ARM bushings are new

OCHOHILL

Do you think it would be a little tough to manually steer a power box with a 15" or 14" wheel?

gjz30075

I did exactly what Rmodel says. When I converted from power to manual, all I changed was the center link and realigned the toe. Later I put on the LH tie rods just because it looked better and 'belongs'.

My steering wheel is a 15" Motolita and I have 215/60 tires with about 2 1/2 degrees of caster. It steers pretty heavy at very slow speeds but at the speed of say, turning a corner, it's not bad at all. Certainly heavier than power but I'm not going back to power.

Gun Jam

Yeah its not a big deal I can say from having done so myself and using the Flaming river gear box. It takes some effort in parking lots but anything above 5mph is cake.

The road feel is awesome its nice.

I got the FR gear box because my original one was worn out. Some say a rebuilt original gear box is as good as a new FR box...I dont know.

-Gun