t5 tailshaft bushing ...
04-08-2012, 11:15 AM
#1
6th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Cork, Ireland
Posts: 6,417
t5 tailshaft bushing ...
first of all I should have listened to GunJam :-)
i am hunting virbrations in driveline that happen at about 70mph and get worse from there (i don't stress it past 80mph, so i don;t know if it gets less or worse at 90
anyway i spent time measuring and measuring, but eventually I found my tailshaft bushing is worn. I can move the tailshaft yoke (driveshaft) up and down by about 2 mm (~ 1/10 of an inch). that's only guessing. could be less or more,m but definetly too much.
until I have that fixed there's no point in chasing the problem any further
I'm looking to buy a new bushing (probably have to get that in the states), but as well I'm looking for a tool to remove and install that bushing in car.
anyone got any ideas or procedure to do this? (and where can I buy bushing? tool?)
Kalli
i am hunting virbrations in driveline that happen at about 70mph and get worse from there (i don't stress it past 80mph, so i don;t know if it gets less or worse at 90
anyway i spent time measuring and measuring, but eventually I found my tailshaft bushing is worn. I can move the tailshaft yoke (driveshaft) up and down by about 2 mm (~ 1/10 of an inch). that's only guessing. could be less or more,m but definetly too much.
until I have that fixed there's no point in chasing the problem any further
I'm looking to buy a new bushing (probably have to get that in the states), but as well I'm looking for a tool to remove and install that bushing in car.
anyone got any ideas or procedure to do this? (and where can I buy bushing? tool?)
Kalli
04-08-2012, 01:44 PM
#2
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Goodyear, AZ
Posts: 1,674
yes sir, this was the same problem that was causing my vibration.
you dont need a tool. the tool makes it easier.
remove the tailshaft and use a large socket or flat screw driver to drive the bushing out of the shaft. then get a new bushing and a socket or piece of pipe that fits the o.d. perfectly and drive it in. re install the tailshaft and your done. I just did mine a couple weeks ago and no more vibrations!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
The bushing was like $11 at a local parts house.
you dont need a tool. the tool makes it easier.
remove the tailshaft and use a large socket or flat screw driver to drive the bushing out of the shaft. then get a new bushing and a socket or piece of pipe that fits the o.d. perfectly and drive it in. re install the tailshaft and your done. I just did mine a couple weeks ago and no more vibrations!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
The bushing was like $11 at a local parts house.
04-08-2012, 02:55 PM
#3
Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Hills of California
Posts: 5,208
Yeah thats totally the issue.
You gotta replace the yoke too I tired 2 TS bushings and neither solved the problem because the yoke was also worn...this wear on the yoke accelerates when the bushing begins to wear.
Replacing both the yoke and the TS bushing totally solved the issue.
I found that in all cases the yoke will not slide into a new installed TS bushing. The TS bushing must be honed with a brake cylinder hone slowly. When the yoke can be installed with moderate effort then you are set. You may have to twist and push on the yoke to slide it in.
If you can just slide in the yoke with one hand and 2 pounds of force...no good
-Gun
You gotta replace the yoke too I tired 2 TS bushings and neither solved the problem because the yoke was also worn...this wear on the yoke accelerates when the bushing begins to wear.
Replacing both the yoke and the TS bushing totally solved the issue.
I found that in all cases the yoke will not slide into a new installed TS bushing. The TS bushing must be honed with a brake cylinder hone slowly. When the yoke can be installed with moderate effort then you are set. You may have to twist and push on the yoke to slide it in.
If you can just slide in the yoke with one hand and 2 pounds of force...no good
-Gun
04-08-2012, 09:28 PM
#4
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Goodyear, AZ
Posts: 1,674
when i did mine I did not get a new yolk. The yolk I had in there only had about 800 miles on it. I replaced it when i got the shaft balanced.
It was a tight fit though. deffinatly had to wiggle the crap out of it to get it to go in.
No vibrations not though!!!!!
It was a tight fit though. deffinatly had to wiggle the crap out of it to get it to go in.
No vibrations not though!!!!!
04-09-2012, 03:40 AM
#5
6th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Cork, Ireland
Posts: 6,417
thanks lads. I'll get the yoke as well. it's low mileage and the gearbox was rebuilt when I received it.
But you might remember my dilemma with the diff pointing down 4 degress instead of up causing huge vibrations. i guess that's what fried the bushing. just guessing
anyway.. where can I buy the bushing and seal? I can't see to find any online shop that lists them ..
I'm thinking maybe giving modern drivelines a call or try in the UK
Kalli
But you might remember my dilemma with the diff pointing down 4 degress instead of up causing huge vibrations. i guess that's what fried the bushing. just guessing
anyway.. where can I buy the bushing and seal? I can't see to find any online shop that lists them ..
I'm thinking maybe giving modern drivelines a call or try in the UK
Kalli
04-09-2012, 07:08 AM
#6
6th Gear Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: PA
Posts: 5,232
Yeah. About a million percent easier.
You must be looking in the wrong places. If you look in this catalog,
http://www.mustangbarn.com/catalog.pdf
you'll see seal and bushing G06153 is what you need. These guys ship stuff to the UK regularly, so they'll be able to do it without costing you an arm and leg. They have the yoke, too.
As for the tool, the proper tool makes this job go from an all-day major deal to a 2-hour quickie. Y'see, the proper tool makes it possible to remove the old bushing without ripping the trans apart. Expensive, but pays for itself the first time you use it.
thanks lads. I'll get the yoke as well. it's low mileage and the gearbox was rebuilt when I received it.
But you might remember my dilemma with the diff pointing down 4 degress instead of up causing huge vibrations. i guess that's what fried the bushing. just guessing
anyway.. where can I buy the bushing and seal? I can't see to find any online shop that lists them ..
I'm thinking maybe giving modern drivelines a call or try in the UK.
But you might remember my dilemma with the diff pointing down 4 degress instead of up causing huge vibrations. i guess that's what fried the bushing. just guessing
anyway.. where can I buy the bushing and seal? I can't see to find any online shop that lists them ..
I'm thinking maybe giving modern drivelines a call or try in the UK.
http://www.mustangbarn.com/catalog.pdf
you'll see seal and bushing G06153 is what you need. These guys ship stuff to the UK regularly, so they'll be able to do it without costing you an arm and leg. They have the yoke, too.
As for the tool, the proper tool makes this job go from an all-day major deal to a 2-hour quickie. Y'see, the proper tool makes it possible to remove the old bushing without ripping the trans apart. Expensive, but pays for itself the first time you use it.
04-09-2012, 10:26 AM
#7
Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Hills of California
Posts: 5,208
I didnt know they made those...Pretty cool
I just used a "key hole" hacksaw with the blade that sticks out about 4" past the handle and cut the bushing in half above the oil channel that is cut into the TS housing under the bushing. But I still had to remove the TS housing.
Even If I had the tool I would have had to remove the TS housing because the new TS bushing required honing.
Did anyone else have to hone the bushing to get the yoke to slide in?
-Gun
I just used a "key hole" hacksaw with the blade that sticks out about 4" past the handle and cut the bushing in half above the oil channel that is cut into the TS housing under the bushing. But I still had to remove the TS housing.
Even If I had the tool I would have had to remove the TS housing because the new TS bushing required honing.
Did anyone else have to hone the bushing to get the yoke to slide in?
-Gun
04-10-2012, 03:33 PM
#8
6th Gear Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: PA
Posts: 5,232
04-10-2012, 05:07 PM
#9
Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Hills of California
Posts: 5,208
The ones I had fit fine until I installed them. They are not a complete tube they are rolled and the joint fits together like puzzle pieces. Once installed in the TS housing apparently they get squeezed and compress slightly along that joint and become too tight.
you dont need a tool. the tool makes it easier.