That hose in the back that connects up to your spacer is for the PCV valve that is located on the top of your passenger side valve cover. You will need to change that PCV valve if it is clogged. You also have an idle adjustment screw on the linkage right where it hooks up to the carb. Screw that out a tad and the engine will slow down. You also may need to set the timing again. Retarding it will slow the engine. Now, you need to get some tubing and hook up the auto choke. Glad you got it started.

 

One of these screws you mean ? Wich one ? And they are not touching anything right now ? What good will screwing them out do ?



[IMG]local://upfiles/17655/0EE7713AC72D47B8A45717FF5AB1DD2C.jpg[/IMG]

 

It's the one on the bottom next to the mounting hole. But, you are right.....if they aren't screwed down, then screwing them out won't do any good.
Now, we need to time the engine. Get a piece of white chalk or white-out or some white paint. If all you have is white paint, get a Q-tip and dip it in the paint. Now, crawl under the front of the car and find your harmonic balancer. That is the big pulley coming out of the bottom of the engine with all your belts going on it. Find the timing marks on the side. There should be a "0" (zero) and some lines etched in the balancer. Mark the third one to the right of the zero with the paint. Now look at the bottom of the timing cover, and you will see a pointer. Mark that with the paint as well.
Now, loosen the bolt at the bottom of the distributor where it attaches to the engine. You will need a specially bent tool to get it loose. You may have to go to a parts place to get one. Now, hook up your timing light. There are three wires coming out of the light. Two go to the battery and the third one goes to #1 spark plug. #1 is the front plug on the passenger's side. You need to have the timing light wire and the plug wire touching the end of the spark plug so that the #1 piston will still fire. The instructions that came with the light will show you how to hook it up. Take the vacuum hose off, and plug the end of the hose with a screw or something. Now, start the car and point the timing light down to where you will see the white paint on the harmonic balancer and the pointer. You have to pull the trigger on the timing light for it to work. Turn the distributor until the pointer lines up with the line on the harmonic balancer. Turn off the engine and tighten down the bolt at the bottom of the distributor. Now, you need to re-set the points if you have points instead of electronic ignition. Let us know if you need help in how to do that.

 

Ok I'll need help to do this i think. Sounds complicated.

But shouldn't i get the engine to slow down first ? How can I do this ...

 

Um, you might want to set the points and dwell up BEFORE you set the timing. Adjustments to the points change timing, that's why you set the points up first. Just a suggestion. If the idle adjustment screw isn't touching anything, the carburetor is probably on the high idle cam of the choke assembly causing the fast idle. You should loosen the choke coil and turn it counter clockwise to get it to come off the high idle cam. Then adjust the idle speed and mixture. The last step is adjusting the choke when the motor is COLD.

 

Actually, the point setting will change after the engine has been timed. That is why I said to time it first, then reset the points.

 

Actually, that's not quite correct. You have it backwards. The point gap and dwell should always be set first, then the timing, on any points equipped vehicle. And the point gap and dwell will not be changed when the distributor is turned to adjust the timing. However, if you set the timing first, and then open or close the gap to set the points, the timing WILL change. Closing the gap will cause the points to open sooner, resulting in increased timing. Opening the gap will cause the points to open later, resulting in decreased timing.

 

By choke coil you mean that round black thingy on the passengers side of the carb with the spring inside ?
Should I hook off the vacuum as wel that is going to the distributor ?

 

No, you don't need to unhook the vacuum line to set the choke. But, you do need some heat coming into it to make it work right.

 

I've had it with this crummy 2100 carburator on my stang ... I even think i have parts missing on it.

thats why ....

I ordered me a brand new Edelbrock 302 performer manifold + edelbrock carb