pcv install questions (ghetto pics)
Hi,
The typical closed system runs like this: The PCV is mtd. in a grommet on right rear V/C and routed to the PCV port on the carb. A second hose is connected from a closed oil filler cap to a hose fitting installed in the air cleaner base wherein a filter is added. See attached.
All of these parts, I found at the local auto parts store. I'll add, the added benefit of a good working PCV system is the reduction in crankcase pressures and a tendency for oil seepage through any weak seals and gaskets.
Hopefully these will give you an idea of how it works.
This brings me back to the problem of not having the hole/grommet in my valve covers that the pcv mounts in. So, I was thinking, would I be able to just get a new oil cap for my valve cover that had a breather tube (like the one in the pic you posted), then run a line off of it to the air cleaner and then from the ****** fitting that would be just below it on the oil fill neck run a hose to a pcv valve then run that to my carb?
If that will work, these are two of the caps ive found that seem like they may work:
http://www.foxbodyworld.com/ford-rac.../p/M6766FRVBK/
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/...L-Oil-Fill-Cap
Then id just have to worry about clearing the hood with the pcv valve installed, on the second one that is....
Edit: One more quick thing, what about a pcv valve with an F fitting? would I be able to route one of those leads to the pcv input on my carb and the other to my air filter? (http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/...raft-Pcv-Valve)
And for that matter, what about installing a T fitting or something off of the one ****** fitting coming out of the neck of my valve covers, then routing one to my air filter then the other a pcv set up then to the carb? Seems like that would work better than using the F fitting idea, but as I type this Im realizing that that may cause problems because then I wouldnt build enough crankcase pressure to open the pcv valve would I? then itd just all route to the air filter....
http://www.foxbodyworld.com/ford-rac.../p/M6766FRVBK/
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/...L-Oil-Fill-Cap
Then id just have to worry about clearing the hood with the pcv valve installed, on the second one that is....
Edit: One more quick thing, what about a pcv valve with an F fitting? would I be able to route one of those leads to the pcv input on my carb and the other to my air filter? (http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/...raft-Pcv-Valve)
And for that matter, what about installing a T fitting or something off of the one ****** fitting coming out of the neck of my valve covers, then routing one to my air filter then the other a pcv set up then to the carb? Seems like that would work better than using the F fitting idea, but as I type this Im realizing that that may cause problems because then I wouldnt build enough crankcase pressure to open the pcv valve would I? then itd just all route to the air filter....
Last edited by rusty65; Jul 3, 2012 at 07:32 PM.
This brings me back to the problem of not having the hole/grommet in my valve covers that the pcv mounts in. So, I was thinking, would I be able to just get a new oil cap for my valve cover that had a breather tube (like the one in the pic you posted), then run a line off of it to the air cleaner and then from the ****** fitting that would be just below it on the oil fill neck run a hose to a pcv valve then run that to my carb?
Hi
Funny! I just knew that question was coming. I'll be honest and say, I don't know that the benefit is the same. That is, think of it as cross-ventilation in a room. That is, air flowing in one source and out the other. I know it is a tough call, as I like those V/Cs too. But, in the end, if drilled properly they can be drilled nicely. In many ways, it's probably better to custom drill anyway, as you can place it in a more convenient place. But, be mindful of where you drill as the PCV must have clearance beneath it. That is, between rockers.
Hope this helps!
Last edited by kenash; Jul 3, 2012 at 07:37 PM.
Yeah, the drilling itself wouldnt be a problem, its how I would have to go about baffling the valve covers once Id drilled the holes that has me concerned. Not to mention that then I have to worry about clearing my rocker arms with the new baffling in place...
I think at this point im just going to have to break down and get a set of tall valve covers that are already baffled so I dont have to worry about my rockers. So much for my nice blue, color matched valve covers
I think at this point im just going to have to break down and get a set of tall valve covers that are already baffled so I dont have to worry about my rockers. So much for my nice blue, color matched valve covers
Yeah, the drilling itself wouldnt be a problem, its how I would have to go about baffling the valve covers once Id drilled the holes that has me concerned. Not to mention that then I have to worry about clearing my rocker arms with the new baffling in place...
I think at this point im just going to have to break down and get a set of tall valve covers that are already baffled so I dont have to worry about my rockers. So much for my nice blue, color matched valve covers
I think at this point im just going to have to break down and get a set of tall valve covers that are already baffled so I dont have to worry about my rockers. So much for my nice blue, color matched valve covers

If the truth be told, ....to make those (mine) regular height V'Cs work with my CompUltra Gold rockers, I removed the casting bosses and the "baffles". I too was nervous, but, to my surprise, there was no fall-out. I'm still using those V/Cs as I enter this.
So.......?
So youre running what I assume are 1.7 roller rockers in stock valve covers with no baffling and a pcv set up?
Do you not get any oil or anything gumming up the pcv valve? Also, what lift cam are you running? Because wouldn't that have a factor in determining the height of the rocker arms inside your valve covers at the peak of their travel? And what year / cid valve covers are they?
I suppose I could always give drilling the valve cover a shot, then if the pcv clogs Im no worse off because I was planning on buying new valve covers at this point anyway. Just a bit of clean up and a valve to replace.
Do you not get any oil or anything gumming up the pcv valve? Also, what lift cam are you running? Because wouldn't that have a factor in determining the height of the rocker arms inside your valve covers at the peak of their travel? And what year / cid valve covers are they?
I suppose I could always give drilling the valve cover a shot, then if the pcv clogs Im no worse off because I was planning on buying new valve covers at this point anyway. Just a bit of clean up and a valve to replace.
So youre running what I assume are 1.7 roller rockers in stock valve covers with no baffling and a pcv set up?
Do you not get any oil or anything gumming up the pcv valve? Also, what lift cam are you running? Because wouldn't that have a factor in determining the height of the rocker arms inside your valve covers at the peak of their travel? And what year / cid valve covers are they?
I suppose I could always give drilling the valve cover a shot, then if the pcv clogs Im no worse off because I was planning on buying new valve covers at this point anyway. Just a bit of clean up and a valve to replace.
Do you not get any oil or anything gumming up the pcv valve? Also, what lift cam are you running? Because wouldn't that have a factor in determining the height of the rocker arms inside your valve covers at the peak of their travel? And what year / cid valve covers are they?
I suppose I could always give drilling the valve cover a shot, then if the pcv clogs Im no worse off because I was planning on buying new valve covers at this point anyway. Just a bit of clean up and a valve to replace.
Nope! I'm running 1.6s. I don't need the additional lift as I'm lifting .570 on the intake and .562 on the exh. I get no ill affects from the loss of the baffles. My junk is a 48 year old 289 bored .040 over and stroke with a 331 kit. My V/Cs appear to be the same height as yours. Ask away, as I build my own junk and know what's inside. It makes 392 RWHP @ 6100
and 400 RWTQ at 4200.
Happy 4th!
Last edited by kenash; Jul 3, 2012 at 09:12 PM.


